[orety]

Hello,
I wrote thread aobut problems with steering bar stability before. It occured that the nut (I am not sure about naming) of the head bearing was loose, so it has been tightened, oil in fork has been changed to thicker and after that everything worked fine.
Recently I noticed that bar becames shaky again, today I made test letting it right without hands on it and it starts from slight shakes to so strong that if I didn't catch the bar it could finish on the ground, I made test twice and it gave the same result. Almost like shimmy.
Could not balanced wheel cause such shakes?

Thanks,
orety

PS: I am really fed up with that as bike has 3000 miles only...

 

[The Old Fool]

You need to replace the steering head bearings with All-Balls or 1800 bearings. The bearings in the 1300 are trash. This is a known problem with the 1300.

 

[lamaybl5711]

I'm not one to tell people to do a search, but....My thoughts on this are the steering bearing. Lots of threads about it and it's a common problem with the 1300's. It seems Honda put really cheap bearing in the 1300's but put better ones in the 1800's. The most common solution is to either go with AllBalls brand bearings (same part # for both 1300&1800's) or to purchase 1800 bearings and put them in.
In some cases, a flat spot on the tire will cause the shimmy or it could possibly be a balance issue but as I said, frequently it's the neck/steering bearings. My point with the search is you could find lots of info on it or there's a sticky on it in the 1300 forums section.

 

[orety]

Thanka guys,
Changin bearing won't do any harm.
Is it the one I am looking for?
https://www.slipstreamperformance.c...?currency=GBP&cPath=914_918&products_id=18286
and
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/All-...rcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eb69474c8

 

[yfx4]

Yup. I did it. takes some time but the steering was a lot more solid after.

 

[The Old Fool]

Not sure about the Aussie bearings but the EBay bearings are correct.

 

[rs42sport]

well the steering bearings are the problem but what air pressure you are running in your tires??? if my tires arent filled to 38 front 40 rear i get a slight shake, it also reminds me to fill up my tires... how does your rear shock bushings look like too???

 

[orety]

well the steering bearings are the problem but what air pressure you are running in your tires??? if my tires arent filled to 38 front 40 rear i get a slight shake, it also reminds me to fill up my tires... how does your rear shock bushings look like too???

No leaks, and still new. I am not sure what to look at to diagnose. I don't have any equipment to lift the bike up and diagnose, but probably will invest into something like that soon:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-MOTORBIKE-QUAD-BIKE-HYDRAULIC/dp/B003JIAG7W%3FSubscriptionId%3D0DWX0HJVE7AWX9HF4X82%26tag%3Dpricedumper05-21%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB003JIAG7W
I will refill tyres wtih air to the the level you advice instead of manual 33/36 and see how does it go.

 

[Charlie D]

No leaks, and still new. I am not sure what to look at to diagnose. I don't have any equipment to lift the bike up and diagnose, but probably will invest into something like that soon:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B003JIAG7W
I will refill tyres wtih air to the the level you advice instead of manual 33/36 and see how does it go.

If you have been running what the manual says then the tires are going to be cupped.
Never go by what a bike or car company says to run always run what the tire manufacturer says they make them and test them and usually know more.

Look at the rear shock eyes if the bolts are not centered on the eye then the bushing are shot and need replaced.

Another factor is depending on your weight (180 lbs) don't run the shock preload under the #3 setting

 

[orety]

If you have been running what the manual says then the tires are going to be cupped.
Never go by what a bike or car company says to run always run what the tire manufacturer says they make them and test them and usually know more.

Look at the rear shock eyes if the bolts are not centered on the eye then the bushing are shot and need replaced.

Another factor is depending on your weight (180 lbs) don't run the shock preload under the #3 setting

So why the Honda manual says rubbish?
I am 210lb.
I ride on default setup, need to check which one is it.

 

[Gonzo1970]

So why the Honda manual says rubbish?
I am 210lb.
I ride on default setup, need to check which one is it.

I am also 210lb. I set my shocks to #4 and it was much improved.

Also check the shock bushings. If the bolt for the shock is not in the center of the shock's eyelet anymore, they are shot. (See Attachment) Replace them.

As far as why Honda says 33/36 tire pressure? I think there are two reasons. 1) They are not a tire company. 2) If the tires wear out faster, there is a better chance that the owner would bring the motorcycle to a honda dealership to have them replaced.

Run 38-40psi. I run 40. I get between 10,000 to 12,000 out of a set of Dunlop Tires.

-Gonz

 

[orety]

I am also 210lb. I set my shocks to #4 and it was much improved.

Also check the shock bushings. If the bolt for the shock is not in the center of the shock's eyelet anymore, they are shot. (See Attachment) Replace them.

As far as why Honda says 33/36 tire pressure? I think there are two reasons. 1) They are not a tire company. 2) If the tires wear out faster, there is a better chance that the owner would bring the motorcycle to a honda dealership to have them replaced.

Run 38-40psi. I run 40. I get between 10,000 to 12,000 out of a set of Dunlop Tires.

-Gonz

Any handling/cornering issues?

 

[Gonzo1970]

Any handling/cornering issues?

Well, as far as me, no.. I havent replaced my steering bearings yet, but I have had no issues with it yet at 13k miles.

I did replace my shock bushings and while the shocks were off, I set them to #4. That did make a HUGE difference in handling.

See, the shock bushings deteriorate gradually.. so slowly that riders just get used to it and don't realize how "floaty" and "unstable" the rear end actually becomes.

But once you replace them, you notice "heeeey... thats different" and WAY more stable in cornering, ride, etc.

-Gonz

 

[Donut]

Replace with All-Balls.
If you run what manual says you will go threw a set of tires in 7-9 k miles.
If you run 38-40 in front and 40 in rear you will get over 18 k miles out of your tires.
Low pressure soft ride (to sell the bike) and eats up tires.
Just those few pounds make a big difference.
These are facts that we all have learned in over the last eight years so we have the proof.
Those few pounds will barely be noticed in ride and in fact you will have better control. I learned and got over 18k out of my first dunnies and was one of the first to start getting everyone to up their pressure.

Donut/Dougatriot:

 

[orety]

Tyres pressure changed to 38/40. Didn't change anything. I'm going to check if tyre is not damaged and wheel balance now.
Thanks for help everybody.

 

[wayne]

A tire out of balance will most of the time cause a hopping, very rarely will it cause a shimmy.

 

[The Old Fool]

Orety - Stop thinking and get the bicycle bearings out of that steering head and get some real bearings in there. If they collapse while you are in a tight turn, you will not be happy.

 

[Charlie D]

Change the bearing in the stem and flush and add new oil to the forks.

you are going to keep having this problem till you do it.

 

[Donut]

Change the bearing in the stem and flush and add new oil to the forks.

you are going to keep having this problem till you do it.

I agree and while you are at it add Dynabeads.

Doug

 

[orety]

Ok guys, I will change the bearing. I need to get the part and lift.
What tools am I going to need?

Donut - what are Dynabeads?

PS: Better to get 1800 bearing or All Balls? Or they are roughly the same? I can have problem with getting All Balls.