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Discussion Starter #1
I did the pair valve mod on my 05 vtx instead of buying plates I used a 1/8" pipe plug in the hole after cutting off the hose nipple dont have to drill it out the tap fits perfect. If you want to save a few bucks
 

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Others report doing this or something similar. The concern that some have raised about this approach is the possibility of condensation forming in the reed valve remnants since they are no longer connected to hoses that can exhaust the collecting gases and condensation. If this condensation does occur, it could lead to corrosion in and around the reed valves. I have no first hand (or second hand) evidence of this occurring. It is merely the normally cited reason for not taking the approach you describe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They will be disassembled before installing just saving from not buying the plates for $20
 

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What...we've got...here....is...failure....to...communicate. -Strother Martin's greatest line.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry it's on a 1300 I guess using the plugged cover and not spending 20 plus dollars on a manufactured plate will make moisture?
 

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Sorry it's on a 1300 I guess using the plugged cover and not spending 20 plus dollars on a manufactured plate will make moisture?

The plates with a good RTV will seal the openings - rubber - being somewhat porous over time - does not provide this protection.

You have been given solid advice, that is all. Its your bike, do what you want to it.
 

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my toes, my line
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Others report doing this or something similar. The concern that some have raised about this approach is the possibility of condensation forming in the reed valve remnants since they are no longer connected to hoses that can exhaust the collecting gases and condensation. If this condensation does occur, it could lead to corrosion in and around the reed valves. I have no first hand (or second hand) evidence of this occurring. It is merely the normally cited reason for not taking the approach you describe.

An excellent synopsis Jim. And personally, there are aesthetics involved - even if I can't SEE it - I KNOW it's there like the friggin' Tell-Tale Heart.

ahem.

Carry on, nothin to see here.
 

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It is important to note that allegations of possible moisture build-up if you leave the reed valves in place are merely that .... allegations. I have never read anyone reporting first hand experience with corrosion actually occurring because of this approach being taken.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All engines build moisture as they warm up to operating temp then it is evaporated and yes the valves are a place to get trapped at. but my point is the original cover with a steel plug in the hole with pipe sealant on it is the same as a plate over it but does not cost the same
 

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The original covers have a concave bulge which extends into a nipple to which the hose attaches. The block off plates are flat (the better ones have a tiny little dimple drilled into the underside). The shape and bulge of the original covers provide a volume that is not present if the block off plates are used. This volume offers additional space in which moisture might collect. This space also bulges up above the engine top so will be slightly cooler than the space inside the engine under the block off plates. While there is no doubt that this bulge space is present, whether or not the volume of this bulge space is significant is unknown.
 

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I have the shiny dimpled plates, and left the reeds in there. The shiny flat aspect of the plates lends itself better to cleaning up the junk under the tank, and dressing her out with lights or ? if that is preferred, as I did.
 

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my toes, my line
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All engines build moisture as they warm up to operating temp then it is evaporated and yes the valves are a place to get trapped at. but my point is the original cover with a steel plug in the hole with pipe sealant on it is the same as a plate over it but does not cost the same
I have some non-dimpled plates available for no cost (you pay the shipping). They are black, not chrome.

If you are disassembling the reed valves anyway, these would work perfectly. PM me if interested.
 

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I removed the pair valve and simply ran 3/8 x 1'' bolts into the holes with blue loctite where the hoses used to attach. This was done 4 1/2 years ago and no problems so far. I've seen rubber nipples put on but my concern is that those would dry rot after a few years. Once you engine has reached operating temp., the condensation-if any- will dissipate and be carried away. If you run your bike so seldom that you're worrying about a condensation problem then your oil and brake fluid would be the much larger concern rather than the drop or two of water that may or may not accumulate under the reed cover.
 

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After reading bareasschopper's article, the condensation problem is only a problem if you just plug the ends of the hoses.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thank you someone finally understands what I'm talking about it was just a cheap alternative I have read the article on doing the mod understand about condensation. If that cover being a half inch higher than the plate caused a problem they would have solid plugs for the tappet covers the whole engine heats up and heat rises simple solution turned into a toilet
 

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I must admit. I'd thought about dropping the extra cabbage for the shiny block off plates so people could Oooooh and Aaaah over them when the tank is off but then I said to myself.........naw. I usually ride with my tank on and seldom remove it at the bike shows.:icon_rockon:
 

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Thank you someone finally understands what I'm talking about it was just a cheap alternative I have read the article on doing the mod understand about condensation. If that cover being a half inch higher than the plate caused a problem they would have solid plugs for the tappet covers the whole engine heats up and heat rises simple solution turned into a toilet
That's what happens to a lot of threads.
 
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