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It's that time Guys. I looked up today and saw that I am at 8100 miles. My first question is: Will I hurt anything if I wait until Saturday (another 500 miles on the Odometer) before I do the valve adjustment? 2, Do I need to put the bike on a stand? 3, Are their step by step instructions on line anywhere? By the way, my bike use to start with two twist of the throttle and press the starter. Now I must press the starter and twist the throttle at the same time for a little gas before it will start. Can anyone tell me why I need to give it a little gas now when I didn't have to before a week ago? Thanks to all for any help given. Hope you had a great Memorial Day!

Six
 

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It's that time Guys. I looked up today and saw that I am at 8100 miles. My first question is: Will I hurt anything if I wait until Saturday (another 500 miles on the Odometer) before I do the valve adjustment? 2, Do I need to put the bike on a stand? 3, Are their step by step instructions on line anywhere? By the way, my bike use to start with two twist of the throttle and press the starter. Now I must press the starter and twist the throttle at the same time for a little gas before it will start. Can anyone tell me why I need to give it a little gas now when I didn't have to before a week ago? Thanks to all for any help given. Hope you had a great Memorial Day!

Six
1) No...it is not a line in the sand.

2) No...but it helps. Make sure the motor is stone cold.

3) Yes...here are two links...but the valve clearances are for an 1800 (you can find them here for a 1300). The process is the same...

http://www.californiavtxriders.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=28124

http://www.californiavtxriders.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=20034


Bull
 

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Bareasschoppers has a write up on valve adjustment for vtx's. I have never adjusted valves on one of these bikes however on any other bike I have ever had it is a painless easy task taking not much expertise to do. Just a little common sense and the disire to keep money in your pocket.
 

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Bareasschoppers has a write up on valve adjustment for vtx's. I have never adjusted valves on one of these bikes however on any other bike I have ever had it is a painless easy task taking not much expertise to do. Just a little common sense and the disire to keep money in your pocket.
I wish I could agree with you...but it is neither painless nor easy (and I have done 4 on X's). A second pair of hands and eyes are helpful. Take your time and you will:

1) Ensure it is done correctly

2) Save a few dollars (cheapest I found is $250 to do the work).

Bull
 

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The guitar, not the fish!
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I wish I could agree with you...but it is neither painless nor easy (and I have done 4 on X's). A second pair of hands and eyes are helpful. Take your time and you will:

1) Ensure it is done correctly

2) Save a few dollars (cheapest I found is $250 to do the work).

Bull
I do them for $200, and I require the bike be trailered in, or dropped off and sits in my garage overnight....
 

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I guess it's because I grew up racing and adjusting valves is part of the racing world. It helps if you have done it before however it's not rocket science and 2 is 2 many when adjusting valves.
 

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If you haven't removed the pair valve system it makes this job a lot easier to get it out of the way, but you have to order some parts first so it would delay your project a little. I have done mine twice and used the Bare Ass Choppers site both times. I got the wrenches at Sears. It seems to work best to get the type of feeler gauges that you can bend so they will fit flush in the valves.
 

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I hope this will make things easier.

Poison has an excellent write-up procedure on doing the valve adjustment.
http://vtx1300tips.com/Valveadjustingbypoision.pdf
And I would also recommend adding and doing it my way to it.
Donut's Way.
Remember that each person with a feeler gauge may have a little different feeling or opinion with a gauge. When you make the adjustment make sure the gauge is not real long and that it is bent about 1/2 inch in from the end so it doesn't touch the rim around the valve adjusting opening the cant be on an angle. If the gauge has to much friction on it then it will be tight. You should have a hard time inserting the next size larger gauge in. I always check with three gauges. One above and one below the proper gauge.
Remember you will always here light ticking due to the gap that you set in the valve. No ticking I would be worried light ticking OK loud ticking the valves is too loose.
Once you set the valves Don't touch the 4mm or the 10mm nut. Just rotate the engine and then only touch and tighten the 10mm. Don't touch the 4mm.
Then rotate the engine and recheck everything at the FT point (for front) and RT (for rear).
Also tie some string to the gauges - you don't want to drop anything in there as some have done.

************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************

Donut's Way.
Doug

Here is the wrench you will need to make it easier.

Sears/Kmart
Craftsman Professional 10 x 11mm Full Polish Deep Offset Wrench, 12 pt. Box End
Part number 44360.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944360000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=

Donut:patriot:Doug
 

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Donut's Way.
Once you set the valves Don't touch the 4mm or the 10mm nut. Just rotate the engine and then only touch and tighten the 10mm. Don't touch the 4mm.
Then rotate the engine and recheck everything at the FT point (for front) and RT (for rear).
Donut:patriot:Doug
I just did my very first valve adjustment this weekend by myself. After I finished (many, many hours later), I have at least one of the valves, but probably more, too loose. I spent that evening re-reading all the threads/instructions and realized I overlooked one step above that Donut recommends. I am sure if I had followed it, it would have made all the difference. So, guess what I am doing THIS weekend again :banghead:?
 

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It's time consuming if you've never done it before, but once you get through it once it's pretty simple from that point forward. And, it will save you $$ as well as give you the peace of mind that it's done right (agree, most dealers/stealers charge a fortune, probably don't even do it or if they do it have some yahoo that does a half-arse job of it). Poison's write-up is very good. Just MAKE SURE that you tie the feeler gauges off to your wrist with some fishing line, string, etc. in case you drop them. You drop it down into the head, you are in trouble. Just take your time, adjust and then check your work by spinning it around again. Some bent feeler gauges from Sears (or another place you can find them at) help a good bit, but you will have to trim them down a little anyway. Good luck, post back with any questions.
 

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yes you might have had a little difficulty however you learned what to do and what not to do. Next time i guarntee you will do it in half the time and get a little faster each time you do it. Practice makes perfect and look at that money you saved in the process. Some people like to save money and some like to spend it. Just depends on what you like. If i was a mechanic i would hate it when peolple who fix their stuff but since i am not i am proud of you.
 

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I just did my very first valve adjustment this weekend by myself. After I finished (many, many hours later), I have at least one of the valves, but probably more, too loose. I spent that evening re-reading all the threads/instructions and realized I overlooked one step above that Donut recommends. I am sure if I had followed it, it would have made all the difference. So, guess what I am doing THIS weekend again :banghead:?
Great now you can teach me!! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks to all of you guys for coming to the rescue...I'll do it Saturday morning and get back to you.
 

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I would strongly suggest you do it per the instructions in my post 11 above and add doing the Donut's Way and it will be a lot easier and you will be more confident when finished.

Donut:patriot:Doug
 

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I would strongly suggest you do it per the instructions in my post 11 above and add doing the Donut's Way and it will be a lot easier and you will be more confident when finished.

Donut:patriot:Doug
Hey Donut, I used your instruction when I did my 600 mile and it was great. One exception, when I tightened the 10mm, the 4mm turned with it so I had to hold the 4mm in place.. Also, if you could clarify "rotate the engine" after setting the gap? Rotate it how much? A full turn, or 2 so the rockers are still loose?:confused:
 

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Hey Donut, I used your instruction when I did my 600 mile and it was great. One exception, when I tightened the 10mm, the 4mm turned with it so I had to hold the 4mm in place.. Also, if you could clarify "rotate the engine" after setting the gap? Rotate it how much? A full turn, or 2 so the rockers are still loose?:confused:
Yo need to turn it far enough to see the rockers move that way you know there is pressure on the valve and that way you don't need to hold the 4mm.
Next time I do one I'll check to see how much I have to turn it.
Donut:patriot:
 
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