After I drain the Vinegar and rinse with soap and water to neutralize the acid, I will fill then flush with clean water and then put the compressor on it to blow through the tank to try to get the most liquid out I can, once that's complete the heat gun will go into the fuel entrance and i'll leave that on to dry it as quickly and thouroughly as possible.
I used a hair dryer and a rubber band to hold the hair dryer against the fuel opening. Worked like a charm.
I would strongly encourage you to reseal your tank using professional grade chemicals that dissolve the rust, prepare the metal, and permanently reseal the tank.
I did this on my 2007 after buying it last year with only 3500 miles on it. It sat for a long time. Fouled my carb, ruined my airbox, and more. Cleaned carb twice because I did not treat the problem... the fuel tank! I also recommend a rebuild kit for the carb, once done with the tank. But the tank should be first.
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It just takes patience. I used hair dryer on hot setting, no petcock so air could escape, as described to dry the tank as appropriate. With the fuel tank sealer, I called POR and asked them about not being able to get all excess out. They said not to worry too much about it, just to keep turning the tank every few minutes for 2-3 hours so less pooled in the bottom of the tank. The easiest opening to drain is the fuel outlet (not the top of the tank). Most important is to dry and cure the sealant completely. More hair dryer action over two days to ensure the sealant was dry and cured, then open air for another 3-4 days.
Next, replace petcock with Honda-only OEM part. I used a cheap chinese knock-off, but it began to leak a few months after installation. So get OEM. It's pricier, but worth the $$.
Next, disassemble and clean your carb, and use a rebuild kit. Be sure to clean the carb well. I just used carb cleaner from O'Reilly's or Autozone parts stores in an aerosol can. This is easier than it sounds, TBH. Do it on a table on some sort of towel as there will be some random fuel in the carb. If you have a parts washer, you might use this. Of course, I'm fairly sure all gaskets/rubber pieces must be removed from the carb?
Next, install the air-fuel mixture screw extension kit (it's described here on the Cafe a lot - Glen's Perm A/F Screw
). You will find this immensely useful as you tune the carb after reinstallation. Be sure all parts of the old a/f screw are removed (before you clean the carb). My o-ring was a sticky lump (don't know why... assume someone used brake clean to clean the carb only 5-6 months before I bought the bike).
I recommend that you also buy an inexpensive tachometer (I got mine on Amazon) to help you gauge RPMs as you adjust the A/F mixture. Cost is about $25. Easy to use as it uses induction on a spark plug. I attached a battery clip to mine so it grips the cable and actually left the tach on my bike (for now).
Finally, check the large diameter rubber vacuum hose which attaches to the airbox and runs across the bike up to the valve on the opposite side of the frame. Mine was so bad it was chunking out of the hose like charcoal. It was very soft in the corners. You might check if yours is doing same. I do not know if this was caused by age or by the fuel-flooded carb. Replace the hose if needed.
This was a learning experience for me. Worst case scenario, I figured, was that I could take it to a shop if needed as a last resort.
Hope this helps!