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Discussion Starter #1
Valve adj on the 1800. Donut's Way
Hi everyone - I'm from the 1300 board and thought I'd give you a good tip of mine that has been proven many times on the 1300 board with 100% success. Everyone that has done their valves and added my trick says it almost makes doing the valves fool proof.
Adjust the valves the normal way and also add my little trick.
Here is a good video.
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/valve-adjustment-vtx-1800/

And I would also recommend adding and doing it my way to it.
Donut's Way.
Remember that each person with a feeler gauge may have a little different feeling or opinion with a gauge. When you make the adjustment make sure the gauge is not real long and that it is bent about 1/2 inch in from the end so it doesn't touch the rim around the valve adjusting opening the cant be on an angle. If the gauge has to much friction on it then it will be tight. You should have a hard time inserting the next size larger gauge in. I always check with three gauges. One above and one below the proper gauge.
Remember you will always here light ticking due to the gap that you set in the valve. No ticking I would be worried light ticking OK loud ticking the valves is too loose.
Once you set the valves Don't touch the 4mm or the 10mm nut. Just rotate the engine and then only touch and tighten the 10mm. Don't touch the 4mm.
Then rotate the engine and recheck everything at the FT point (for front) and RT (for rear).
Also tie some string to the gauges - you don't want to drop anything in there as some have done.

************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************

Donut's Way.
Doug

Here is the wrench you will need to make it easier.

Sears/Kmart
Craftsman Professional 10 x 11mm Full Polish Deep Offset Wrench, 12 pt. Box End
Part number 44360.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944360000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=


PS; you may want to add this to your sticky above.
 

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Thanks for the tip Doug. Hoss37, OFS, and I are planning on doing the valves on my 1800 the 24th of this month. Any and all additional is greatly appreciated!!
 

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Valve adj on the 1800. Donut's Way
Hi everyone - I'm from the 1300 board and thought I'd give you a good tip of mine that has been proven many times on the 1300 board with 100% success. Everyone that has done their valves and added my trick says it almost makes doing the valves fool proof.
Adjust the valves the normal way and also add my little trick.
Here is a good video.
http://tech.bareasschoppers.com/engine/valve-adjustment-vtx-1800/

And I would also recommend adding and doing it my way to it.
Donut's Way.
Remember that each person with a feeler gauge may have a little different feeling or opinion with a gauge. When you make the adjustment make sure the gauge is not real long and that it is bent about 1/2 inch in from the end so it doesn't touch the rim around the valve adjusting opening the cant be on an angle. If the gauge has to much friction on it then it will be tight. You should have a hard time inserting the next size larger gauge in. I always check with three gauges. One above and one below the proper gauge.
Remember you will always here light ticking due to the gap that you set in the valve. No ticking I would be worried light ticking OK loud ticking the valves is too loose.
Once you set the valves Don't touch the 4mm or the 10mm nut. Just rotate the engine and then only touch and tighten the 10mm. Don't touch the 4mm.
Then rotate the engine and recheck everything at the FT point (for front) and RT (for rear).
Also tie some string to the gauges - you don't want to drop anything in there as some have done.

************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************************

Donut's Way.
Doug

Here is the wrench you will need to make it easier.

Sears/Kmart
Craftsman Professional 10 x 11mm Full Polish Deep Offset Wrench, 12 pt. Box End
Part number 44360.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944360000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=


PS; you may want to add this to your sticky above.
I would like to add that using forceps to hold gauges makes it easier to feel the clearance also suggest using two feeler gauges in lieu of one for feeling exhaust, i.e., two .006 gauges which is more flexable in lieu of one .012 which if very stiff. I too like the go, no go method.
:patriot:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just make sure you tie something to all tools/gauges that go anywhere near the valve adjustments- in the past there has been some that have accidentally dropped stuff in there. :banghead: so tie some string to them.
 

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All I can say is "A valve job sounds very intimidating to me" maybe someday, I'll put on my manly panties and do it! I bought my bike used with 10,000 on the odo. I'm hoping someone else did it at the 8K mark. Because, the bike seems to run well.
 

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I just did mine recently, with a lot of help, at Bassdude's Tech Session.

My thoughts are this:

1) The feeler gauges are a bitch to get in the right place. If you got skinny fingers, you're good.. But, the feeler gauges need to have some resistance when you check them, and put the feeler gauges in from the SIDE.. you want to feel resistance when you pull them out.

2) Dont be afraid. If you get it wrong, the first time you fire up that engine, you will know if you got it right or wrong. Wrong is A) Clacking of the valves... and I mean Loud Clacking. B) No valve sound. Right is a Sweing Machine sound.

If you're that non-mechanical, or are that worried about it, I would highly recommend getting Bassdude404 to do it if you're close to em.. The price is worth it and you know you will get it done right.

-Gonz
 

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luckychuckie: Just read the directions and watch the videos (a couple of them on youtube) of how to do it a few times and then go for it. I'm scared to death of doing mine, waited till about 16k miles before my bike had the first one done. Last weekend I did them again with nothing more than a couple of pages of printed directions, a few beers, and several hours to kill if I messed up or got frustrated. I am very mechanically inept but try and do the work myself. Just follow directions and listen to the advice of tying a string to the wrenchs.....don't ask me how I know.
P.S. there are a type of medical forceps that can be used to recover said dropped wrenchs.
 

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The guitar, not the fish!
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If you're that non-mechanical, or are that worried about it, I would highly recommend getting Bassdude404 to do it if you're close to em.. The price is worth it and you know you will get it done right.

-Gonz
Appreciate the plug for the new biz buddy!!..:mosh:
To elaborate, my normal price on valve adjustment/check is $200....

BUT...Through the July 4th weekend I'm knocking that price down for VTX Cafe members to $150...After Independence day weekend, the price goes back up to $200 (which is still a helluva bargain)...PM me for details...;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dealers work on multiple bikes and try to use that knowledge on the VTX and the VTX is a different bread. How would you ever know if the dealer ever did it - (his word) ??? When Bill dose it you will know it was actually done.
Great price Bill. Even at the $200 you will know it was done right.
 

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The guitar, not the fish!
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33,457 Posts
Dealers work on multiple bikes and try to use that knowledge on the VTX and the VTX is a different bread. How would you ever know if the dealer ever did it - (his word) ??? When Bill dose it you will know it was actually done.
Great price Bill. Even at the $200 you will know it was done right.
Thanks to you also Donutman...

Was at a Grand Opening/Open house at the painter that did my tank and bags this morning....Not as many folks showed up as we thought might, but had a good time regardless...Another fellow there with a Star 650 was asking about doing his valves....Told him the price and he said a local dealer (North End Cycle in Elkhart) quoted $250 for his bike....Said he'd rather pay an independant shop than a big dealer, because the big dealers have a "get it in and out as fast as possible" mindset, versus an independant shop that will take their time and do it right....;) :cool:

BTW... His bike was also painted by the same guy...
http://hydrascustoms.com/airbrushintkeckjr.htm
 
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