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2005 VTX 1300R
HISTORY: I bought it with 19k miles. It now has 39k miles and this is the first valve adjustment I do on it. I don't know if they've ever been adjusted. I read some other threads looking for an answer and read someone ask about what kind of oil was being used. I don't buy motorcycle motor oil but instead use full synthetic. I hope that's not bad thing. I change it every 9000 miles and have to add a quart around every 1000 miles. The plug on the right side of my rear cylinder gets gunked up consitently. I have to clean it out every 1000 miles, too. It was suggested that the valves needed to be adjusted or there was a gasket leak. I am hopeful that I don't have a bad gasket because the problem has remained consistent since I've had the bike (20k miles). The bike also had Vance & Hines pipes installed by the previous owner. I did a scar mod a while back and adjusted the Air/Fuel a while back. I just installed the pair valve plates and am adjusting the valves at the same time.


I adjusted the valves on the front. The all needed minor adjusting. I opened up the rear covers and all 3 are so tight, I couldn't get the gauges in. I proceeded to open them up, but no matter how much I loosen the adjusting bolt, there does not seem to be a gap and the gauges can't be inserted. I'm not even sure what this means or what to do next.

This is the first time I do this, so I wanted to get some advice before I do something wrong/expensive. Thanks for your advice!
 

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after adjusting the front cyl,I think you have to turn the crank a full turn to adjust the rear.There is a manual download link on this forum,near the top of the posts..I have a 2007 vtx1300r and the manual says to adjust the valves at 600 miles then every 8000 miles .
 

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2005 VTX 1300R
HISTORY: I bought it with 19k miles. It now has 39k miles and this is the first valve adjustment I do on it. I don't know if they've ever been adjusted. I read some other threads looking for an answer and read someone ask about what kind of oil was being used. I don't buy motorcycle motor oil but instead use full synthetic. I hope that's not bad thing. I change it every 9000 miles and have to add a quart around every 1000 miles. The plug on the right side of my rear cylinder gets gunked up consitently. I have to clean it out every 1000 miles, too. It was suggested that the valves needed to be adjusted or there was a gasket leak. I am hopeful that I don't have a bad gasket because the problem has remained consistent since I've had the bike (20k miles). The bike also had Vance & Hines pipes installed by the previous owner. I did a scar mod a while back and adjusted the Air/Fuel a while back. I just installed the pair valve plates and am adjusting the valves at the same time.


I adjusted the valves on the front. The all needed minor adjusting. I opened up the rear covers and all 3 are so tight, I couldn't get the gauges in. I proceeded to open them up, but no matter how much I loosen the adjusting bolt, there does not seem to be a gap and the gauges can't be inserted. I'm not even sure what this means or what to do next.

This is the first time I do this, so I wanted to get some advice before I do something wrong/expensive. Thanks for your advice!
looks like you dont have the rear piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. if the valve are open a little you will not be able to losten the adjuster enough. rotate the engine clockwise while your rotating the crank with a wrench, watch the intake and exhaust valves. after the exhaust opens and starts to close you will see the intake valve open then close. after the intake valve closes watch the timing markings on the crank and line up the RT mark with the needle on the front side of the crank opening. be aware that there are 2 marks on the crank an FT and an RT. if your working on the rear cylinder you must use the RT mark
 

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Discussion Starter #5
looks like you dont have the rear piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. if the valve are open a little you will not be able to losten the adjuster enough. rotate the engine clockwise while your rotating the crank with a wrench, watch the intake and exhaust valves. after the exhaust opens and starts to close you will see the intake valve open then close. after the intake valve closes watch the timing markings on the crank and line up the RT mark with the needle on the front side of the crank opening. be aware that there are 2 marks on the crank an FT and an RT. if your working on the rear cylinder you must use the RT mark
I rotated the engine clockwise twice after adjusting the front valves. I double checked and I have the crank lined up with the RT mark (for the rear). The needle is lined up dead center between the two lines beneath "RT". However, if this is the first thing that comes to mind and appears to be the problem, I'll rotate it a couple times again just to see what I end up with.

Should I be centered between the two lines or should it be lined up with "RT"?
 

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on the RT mark. the other mark is the ignition timing mark
 

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Valves are to be adjusted on the compression stroke of that particular cylinder...Easiest way to determine if you're on the compression stroke or not is to remove ONE sparkplug from each cylinder...While rotating the crankshaft bolt (start with the front cylinder), hold your thumb or a finger over the sparkplug hole..When you're on the compression stroke, the air in the cylinder will try to push your thumb off the hole...Then line up the timing marks for that cylinder and check valve lash for all three valves (two intake and one exhaust)...Repeat same procedure for rear cylinder...
 
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