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I'm getting conflicting input on valve adjustment on a new 1300. One group says you MUST check the lash because you're risking burning a valve if the lash is too low (valve not closing all the way.) Others say don't worry because carbon buildup, seat expansion and cam/lifter wear all go towards increasing lash which means less power but no burned valves (valve opens late and closes early.) What do the forum members say? I don't want to have to it if it's not necessary. What did yall find when you checked them? Thanks, guys.
 

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Darkside Pastor & Addict
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I'm getting conflicting input on valve adjustment on a new 1300. One group says you MUST check the lash because you're risking burning a valve if the lash is too low (valve not closing all the way.) Others say don't worry because carbon buildup, seat expansion and cam/lifter wear all go towards increasing lash which means less power but no burned valves (valve opens late and closes early.) What do the forum members say? I don't want to have to it if it's not necessary. What did yall find when you checked them? Thanks, guys.
Well they are to be checked (possibly adjusted) at the 600 mile service. If you have the 3000 plus miles on your bike now and they haven't been checked then I would get them looked at right away. A lot of guys do their own.

Pdave:patriot:
 

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I didnt check mine till 9k and only one was in spec. I think its a personal choice, IMHO I think 600 is too early more like 1k to get a good read. good luck
 

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I'm getting conflicting input on valve adjustment on a new 1300. One group says you MUST check the lash because you're risking burning a valve if the lash is too low (valve not closing all the way.) Others say don't worry because carbon buildup, seat expansion and cam/lifter wear all go towards increasing lash which means less power but no burned valves (valve opens late and closes early.) What do the forum members say? I don't want to have to it if it's not necessary. What did yall find when you checked them? Thanks, guys.
Fence fixer and I did his valves. They need adjustment at 4000 plus miles. It was not that hard to do and saved a lot of cash. I'm going to check mine this winter. Get a book and start reading up on it or you can find information on the web.
I would prefer checking the valves and not pulling the motor to have a valve job done.
It took us about 2 hours to get-er done and he said the bike ran great.
:choppersm
 

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I'm getting conflicting input on valve adjustment on a new 1300. One group says you MUST check the lash because you're risking burning a valve if the lash is too low (valve not closing all the way.) Others say don't worry because carbon buildup, seat expansion and cam/lifter wear all go towards increasing lash which means less power but no burned valves (valve opens late and closes early.) What do the forum members say? I don't want to have to it if it's not necessary. What did yall find when you checked them? Thanks, guys.
Most run towards the tight side... Set them between 1 - 4K and you should be good for a while.
Only way to know is to check them.
 

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shock factor unrated
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Most run towards the tight side... Set them between 1 - 4K and you should be good for a while.
Only way to know is to check them.
i'm agreeing with you on this one..........+1
 

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C'MON THE HOOPS
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+1 on the above. IIRC, only 1 of mine was in spec when I did them. Maybe 2, but I'm glad I did them for my piece of mind. I wasn't about to take the risk, and the bike ran great after I did the work. Plus I learned a lot about wrenching my bike.
 

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Mine don't change much now that I have over 24k on them. The most important time is the first 1000 miles. Exhaust specs are on the loose side at .012" +/- .001" so you will have little chance of burning them if you get the initial check done by 1k miles. I have never had to adjust more than .002 on any Honda I have owned (I have had a few over the last 4 decades). FWIW I find that on the X, setting intakes at a tight .006 and exhasut at a tight .013 works well to keep me in spec. from inspection to inspection.
 

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I had an 81 Honda CBX back when I thought six cylinders, six carbs and 24 valves were needful things......omg.

I had many times where I had to adjust out more than .002 on it's valves.

We got it good compared to that setup though. You had to pull shims from each valve and replace them with thicker or thinner shims after doing the math.
They were available from the dealer of course.....if I remember right.....they were almost five bucks each.!

Soooooooo.........adjust your valves!

It's just a little constructive time with your tools and your beast. Enjoy it......It's a good thing!

Winter
 

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AKA Pooch
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Where do we find the info on this to do it ourselves?
 

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Where do we find the info on this to do it ourselves?
I took screenshots of the three pages in the official manual.

I uploaded them and the links are as follows. Just click on em and they will open to their own page.

Right click on the picture and choose Save Image as..........choose a folder on you pc.....done.

I hope it helps. That is all the info you need to do the job. Besides standard safety stuff, tool sources and lifelong satisfaction index for doing it yourself. It is off the scale......just do it!

Luck......Winter..:choppersm



Page One:
http://www.vtxcafe.com/gallery/data/...lve_adjust.jpg

Page Two:

http://www.vtxcafe.com/gallery/data/558/3-8_valve.jpg

Page Three:
http://www.vtxcafe.com/gallery/data/558/3-9_valve.jpg
 

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The guitar, not the fish!
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I had an 81 Honda CBX back when I thought six cylinders, six carbs and 24 valves were needful things......omg.
Winter
These pics should take you back a bit then.....

My dad's buddy bought this one when they first came out...Then got the one that came with the factory fairing and saddlebags....Really cool stuff, just ahead of it's time...




 

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BassDude,

Yes,
They do conjure up good memories. I had an 81. Silver with the Sport touring fairing and removable saddlebags.

The bags were not big enough for much, but then the riding position didn't make you want to go too far far home anyways.

I remember going to San Diego from my home in San Francisco over a 3 day weekend. On the way back it rained non-stop for 15 hours.

I decided to get off at a Denny's and get some coffee. I was braking half way up the off ramp when the brakes locked up and the entire bike got sideways and I was sliding up the ramp, 90 degrees of straight ahead and still doing 60 mph.

OMG.......my life flashed before my eyes and I almost panicked. Instead, I let up off the brakes and let the bike have it's head. The bike took over.......straightening itself back up and I lived to ride another day.........lol.

My current VTX does the same thing. If I get into a slide and sideways......I let up on the anchors and let it have it's way.......hard skill to master though......but oh so coooooool.

Thanks bro

John Michael...:choppersm
 

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I would check them, did my post breakin check at 1000 miles ( a lil late). the front jug was way in on both (intake .10mm, exhaust .20mm, but the rear jug was fine.

A buddy of mine has the same bike with 3000 miles and never had them checked, I talked him into checking them (cause i helped) and his were all still in spec. Point of the story is YOU NEVER KNOW TILL YOU CHECK THEM.
 
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