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Sturgis regular
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High Five air cleaner

I have a 2006 VTX 1300c. I'd like to put a Kury High Five air cleaner on it. I have NEVER rejetted anything. The directions say to "rejet carb". I really think I could do it if I need to, do I need to? If so, what is the easiest way to "get -r-done"?
 

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Desert Recluse
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have a 2006 VTX 1300c. I'd like to put a Kury High Five air cleaner on it. I have NEVER rejetted anything. The directions say to "rejet carb". I really think I could do it if I need to, do I need to? If so, what is the easiest way to "get -r-done"?
Mr.B: I really think the term "rejet" has been miss used by may in the more "recent" years... Most bikes could benifit by "tuning" when delivered from the dealer.. and anytime an intake or exhaust change is made, "retuning" should be looked at... this DOES NOT always require changing jet sizes which would fall into the "rejet" category. In your case if you are only changing the intake (Kury) and running stock exhaust pipes, then a simple A/F adjustment may be all that is required... most extreme scenerio would be adding ONE 0.020" shim under the needle head.. that's it... NO re-jetting... disreguard the instructions and "jetting parts" supplied with the Kury kit.. they will only give you headaches, poor performance and weeks of pulling your hair... read thoroughly the link on 1300 carberator adjustment on this forum and you should have NO problems at all. -- You will not have to pull the float bowl cover and change jet sizes unless you are also installing a high extraction exhaust system... and then it may not be required... just follow the directions and your bike will run immediately after installing your new accessories.

Have fun. :cheers:
 

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Scar I got my bike running great, you prob wont believe this but, I started form the BOTTOM of the notched needle and went up one notch. IT RUNS LIKE A BAT!!!!! No smoke, No choke, no joke.
 

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Desert Recluse
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Scar I got my bike running great, you prob wont believe this but, I started form the BOTTOM of the notched needle and went up one notch. IT RUNS LIKE A BAT!!!!! No smoke, No choke, no joke.
Good going BigD...
 

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i have a 2006 vtx1300 could you tell me how to drain the carb bowl for winter storage
 

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Desert Recluse
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i have a 2006 vtx1300 could you tell me how to drain the carb bowl for winter storage
Shelli: I don't know if I would go to the trouble of manually dumping the float bowl.. How about running the bike until it needs a half tank of fuel or so.. go to the gas station, dump in the Sea Foam (product) and fill the tank (aggitation should be pretty good that way).. Ride the bike home, pull the vacuum hose on the petcock while the bike is running and let it run until it stops.. that should pretty much cover any possibilities for the fuel system for winter storage.

Me -- riding season began a couple months ago and is "good to go" for another 9 months or so until it starts to "heat up" again. :)
 

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vtx carburetor adjustment link

Scar Thank You For The Information It Is A Lot Easier Than The Other Alternative Thanks Again Shelli
 

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Shelli - I just followed the procedure just proposed by Scar and then just to be sure I drained the carb bowl by removing air filter cover, the filter element, and then loosened three screws around the air inlet and one hex head below at bottom of plastic housing. I was able to open a space at rear of the plastic housing between cylinder wide enough to access the drain screw with a screwdriver. I was surprised there was still 2-3 spoonfulls of fuel still in the bowl. Just enough to jel and cause problems next spring.
 

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scar, just bought an 07 vtx1300c and was planning an exhaust change and knew i would have to adjust the carb when i did, so thanks for the info.
 

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I read with great interest your various postings on tuning the VTX car. I'm preparing to begin some mild tuning to the A/F screw to improve drivability after adding aftermarket mufflers.
Turning the screw out richens the fuel mixture. Does this enrichment affect all the operating circuits of the carb (ie: idle, cruise/mid-range, acceleration, high rpm)? Or does it mainly enrich carb operation in only one or two types of driving?
 

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Desert Recluse
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I read with great interest your various postings on tuning the VTX car. I'm preparing to begin some mild tuning to the A/F screw to improve drivability after adding aftermarket mufflers.
Turning the screw out richens the fuel mixture. Does this enrichment affect all the operating circuits of the carb (ie: idle, cruise/mid-range, acceleration, high rpm)? Or does it mainly enrich carb operation in only one or two types of driving?
The A/F screw mainly affects the slow speed circuit.. it also performs a fine tuning of the "interchange" from slow speed to high speed circuit, mainly the "response" into the high speed circuit.. very fine tune.

If you are using aftermarket pipes and stock airbox, then you may get away with only fine tuning the A/F screw.. or you may require slight shimming under the needle head to raise the needle slightly... 0.02" is pretty standard for this adjustment.. you may then have to fine to the A/F screw to maximize the new settings. -- Be sure to trim the tit under the needle holder cap.. there is minimum clearance between the head of the needle and the tit in stock configuration.. any raising of the needle usually requires triming the tit a little so you have some side to side movement of the needle when it is locked into place inside the diaphragm piston.. this ensures that the needle will follow a smooth path in the emulsion tube.

Have fun.
 

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Just a little advice needed

Scar -

I have an 07 VTX retro, Bought it with the Cobra Short Slash-back pipes installed by dealer so i have no idea what was jetted when they were installed. I recently added the dreaded Kurk...Hyper. Pro R air kit.

I've used the 195 main and 65 slow jet and no shims and it runs ok, but hesitates a little. ran for about 20 miles and the plugs were black and she ran FAT.

My thought was to go to the 185 main and leave the 65 slow jet with no shims. Any thoughts?

Also, if i was to shim, do they go under or over the E-clip on the needle?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Desert Recluse
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Scar -

I have an 07 VTX retro, Bought it with the Cobra Short Slash-back pipes installed by dealer so i have no idea what was jetted when they were installed. I recently added the dreaded Kurk...Hyper. Pro R air kit.

I've used the 195 main and 65 slow jet and no shims and it runs ok, but hesitates a little. ran for about 20 miles and the plugs were black and she ran FAT.

My thought was to go to the 185 main and leave the 65 slow jet with no shims. Any thoughts?

Also, if i was to shim, do they go under or over the E-clip on the needle?

Thanks in advance.
65 pilot jet is too big.. your fuel mileage will be bad and performance could be better.

185 main jet is too small.. especially in DJ sizing.. You need a Keihin or Factory Pro series 393 main jet.. 195 or 200 most likely.. So the dealer stole the jets.. did he also steal the stock needle?
 

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65 pilot jet is too big.. your fuel mileage will be bad and performance could be better.

185 main jet is too small.. especially in DJ sizing.. You need a Keihin or Factory Pro series 393 main jet.. 195 or 200 most likely.. So the dealer stole the jets.. did he also steal the stock needle?
The needle has 5-6 grooves at the top and the e-clip is in the 3rd spot from the top. Not sure if it is a stock needle or not. Can you tell from that discription?

I'll keep the 195 in place as you suggest (now that I think of it one of the jets (185 or 195) say Factory right in it.

What would you suggest for the slow jet?
 

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Desert Recluse
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The needle has 5-6 grooves at the top and the e-clip is in the 3rd spot from the top. Not sure if it is a stock needle or not. Can you tell from that discription?

I'll keep the 195 in place as you suggest (now that I think of it one of the jets (185 or 195) say Factory right in it.

What would you suggest for the slow jet?
After market pipes and hypercharger you should run a Keihin 195 main jet (or factory pro series 393 #195) and a 55 pilot jet (facotry pro series 21 #55 if you do not have the stock Keihin pilot jet)

Shim under the needle to 0.04" or 0.06" (two or three radio shack shims) and turn the A/F screw out 2 1/2 turns for initial tuning -- that should get you on the road.

The DJ 195 main jet flows less fuel than a Keihin 195 main jet..
 

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After market pipes and hypercharger you should run a Keihin 195 main jet (or factory pro series 393 #195) and a 55 pilot jet (facotry pro series 21 #55 if you do not have the stock Keihin pilot jet)

Shim under the needle to 0.04" or 0.06" (two or three radio shack shims) and turn the A/F screw out 2 1/2 turns for initial tuning -- that should get you on the road.

The DJ 195 main jet flows less fuel than a Keihin 195 main jet..
Thanks a lot, I will get these jets and try it. Are you able to tell if thats the stock needle by my discription?

Thanks
 
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