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I recommend that you put your post in the "urgent help section" and that you describe your problem a bit more. What does "not advance" mean? The choke on these bikes does not function like a traditional choke by modifying the air flow. Instead, it is an "enrichener" which simply dumps more fuel into the carb. This causes the bike to run very rich (fuel to air ratio is too high). If the choke is used for more than about 30 seconds each time the bike is started, it usually leads to fouling of the spark plugs. I recommend that you remove all four spark plugs and examine their tips. If the tips are black and covered in soot or a hardened oil like look, this is evidence that using the choke has fouled your plugs. You can google what the proper appearance of sparkplugs is and even search for this on this site or look in the sticky thread on commonly asked questions.

The best solution to your problem is to buy and install a factory pro ject kit and then use the carb tuning instructions found in the signature of Cafe member Charlie D. Many people have had your problem with having to use the choke on a cold VTX 1300 but needing to use it for 30 minutes is quite excessive. Once they install the FP jet kit and properly tune the bike, most never even have to use the choke anymore.

G'day,

Vinish
 

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I just ordered Cobra Slashcut Slip on exhaust for my 2006 1300 vtx (c). I Should be getting them this weekend/early next week. I have seen alot of conflicting information regarding rejetting my stock jet as I still have the stock exhaust on. If I need to, what carb jet kit is recommended ect. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Chrome Hater
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Chrome Hater
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That was extremely helpful spud! Thank you.
No problem. Also for future reference I would post in the 1300 forum with questions like this due to the fact that this part of the website gets overlooked and also might get a faster response. Also the search bar at the right corner may lead you to a question that has already been asked.

Ride safe!
 

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Hello all my name is Kyler and I have a 2007 VTX1300c. Stock pipes and air cleaner. My question is if I did the scar mod would it be worth the time in a stock bike?
 

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I would go ahead and get Glenn's permanent a/f screw to make it a piece of cake to adjust the a/f. The end of the adjuster comes down right next to the factory idle adjuster. These bikes were sold way on the lean side to pass EPA emission rules. Adjusting the a/f will help. Personally, I installed a 58 slow jet in addition to the a/f screw from Glenn. It cured all the lean induced gremlins. As a general rule, unless you open up your air box or change it out, you don't need to rejet. Just pipes changed ?? No need to rejet. I changed to Big Shot piped with a K&N air filter and changed the slow jet anyway. My experience may not be the rule. I believe Basedude404 did the scar mod years ago and still runs the same deal today with great results on his VTX1300R.
SO, you have 2 ways to go. Check out post #524 above and click the link to CharlieD's thread about these carbs. Tons of useful info to help you tune your bike.
And welcome to the VTX Cafe
 

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I just put the Vance&Hines bigshots on my 2007 Vtx1300c with no air intake mods. There is popping on the decel suggesting afterburn or the PAIR valve is doing its thing. On Accel. There is no misfire or backfiring at all so I'm voting it's very lean (any differing opinions please comment and explain.) So I'm planning on adjusting my pilot screw to 2 - 2 and a half turns like suggested on the forums here which is under the "scar mod" which I'm also planning on doing(don't know yet if I'll be shimming it or not.) The main question I have is where do you put your throttle stop adjustment when adjusting your pilot screw for correct idle? Half way in? Bottomed out? Any help would be appreciated.
Kyler
 

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Some background info. I'm at around 4000 ft. Elevation, left baffles in the pipes and I just pulled the spark plugs and there is a little blistering on the tips but not bad by any means
 

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I want to say thank you to everyone that posted about scar mods etc.. I just accomplished it successfully on stock air box with 1 shim and 2.5 turns out on a/f screw. I also made a notch on the a/f screw so I can use a flat head to adjust or remove. Thanks again
 

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its bored .40 and has a medium cam . running a 65 pilot and 185 main jet. pair valve , carb scar. after I did my pair valve job . and made a custom wide open air intake . idles good sounds good . but when I take her out she pops and looses after just a few RPMs seems to get worse the farther up in gears I go . the more I lift needle the better it gets . my question involves jets . I understand carbs . surly the pilot size has some curve effect after the RPMS climb ? seems im chasing my tail . lol doesn't happen often but here I am grasping at straws. thanks for any time / help n effort
 

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its bored .40 and has a medium cam . running a 65 pilot and 185 main jet. pair valve , carb scar. after I did my pair valve job . and made a custom wide open air intake . idles good sounds good . but when I take her out she pops and looses after just a few RPMs seems to get worse the farther up in gears I go . the more I lift needle the better it gets . my question involves jets . I understand carbs . surly the pilot size has some curve effect after the RPMS climb ? seems im chasing my tail . lol doesn't happen often but here I am grasping at straws. thanks for any time / help n effort
You have the standard hypercharger crap installed.
You need to read what affects what post.
 

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~ High-Finesse Hooligan ~
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(this process will not work for "left handers", you will have to purchase a Yamaha carburetor)
Please give the context if you want an answer... the quote sounds sarcastic in nature, but without any context, who knows what you are even talking about??? :shrug: :doh:
 

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~ High-Finesse Hooligan ~
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So can anyone give me the ID and OD of the shims? I don't know exactly what I need. Think radio shack is closed now.
It is a narrow flat washer for a #4 machine screw, 0.020" thick.

 

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I have a question? 05 vtx 1300c it has Vance and Hines cruzers pipes. I am going to install a K&N filter and do the airbox decap mod. Along with the pair valve delete. I have use the carbjetkits.com site previously on my 600 and it did great. They recommend 2 shines, a 200 main, and a 58 pilot. With a stock box and K&N. And with pods, cones, or spike a 205 main. I guess what I am asking would the airbox decap mod be about the same as those?
 

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Actually most on here prefer the Factory Pro kit for rejetting the carb. The Factory Pro kit comes with the jets that work best on our bikes, plus a replacement needle with slots and clip to adjust off idle. There is also a definitive article by Charlie D on how to set up for this kit and although, unfortunately Charlie is no longer with us (RIP Charlie), we have several other members on here who have gained much insight from Charlie on this and are very helpful.
 

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my toes, my line
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I have a question? 05 vtx 1300c it has Vance and Hines cruzers pipes. I am going to install a K&N filter and do the airbox decap mod. Along with the pair valve delete. I have use the carbjetkits.com site previously on my 600 and it did great. They recommend 2 shines, a 200 main, and a 58 pilot. With a stock box and K&N. And with pods, cones, or spike a 205 main. I guess what I am asking would the airbox decap mod be about the same as those?
As Sparky mentions, Factory Pro is the way to go. I'd suggest a 58/215 combo - maye even a 60 slow jet. I would not mess with any other jet kits (Dyna, Cobra, etc).

If you have the stock box and do a decap: 58/210
If you run a spike or another heavy breather: 60/210,215

LINK: https://www.factorypro.com/Prod_Pages/prodh80.html
 
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