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VTX 1300 Ran Without Oil

824 Views 11 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  darrenbashby
I have a 2005 VTX 1300, the bike was ran without oil. The first thing we did was put oil in it to see if it would start and it would but we couldn’t rev it over a certain RPM then the bike would shut off and just turn over. Now it won’t even start. I’m not mechanically inclined and have no idea where to go from here. Wondering if I need an engine rebuild or engine replacement and how much it would be. Could I do it myself with YouTube or do I need a shop?
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Cost to repair will probably be more than the bike is worth. Finding a totaled/wreaked bike with the engine running will be probably cheaper and faster.
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I have a 2005 VTX 1300, the bike was ran without oil. The first thing we did was put oil in it to see if it would start and it would but we couldn’t rev it over a certain RPM then the bike would shut off and just turn over. Now it won’t even start. I’m not mechanically inclined and have no idea where to go from here. Wondering if I need an engine rebuild or engine replacement and how much it would be. Could I do it myself with YouTube or do I need a shop?
How long was it ran without oil? How did it ran out of oil? Did it set unused for a long period of time after the oil issue? It's terrible either way but if it was just a brief minute or two it might be serviceable. If it was ran until it soft seized then you could be assured some damage was done or a catastrophic amount was done. Have you attempted a compression test? Try draining the oil and see what contaminants or debis is in the oil you briefly ran it on. Was it knocking or tapping when it ran? I would do a compression test and if that shows serviceable compression then I would get a borescope to check the cylinder walls and piston. It's very possible that the engine was heavily damaged but there's no sense in throwing it out without at least checking it. I assume from what you've said that you don't have the tools to diagnose these issues. Harbor Freight has a compression test kit for $30 and you can get a cheap borescope that connects to an android phone from Amazon. Last thing, where are you located? Someone near you may be willing to check it for you.
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How long was it ran without oil? How did it ran out of oil? Did it set unused for a long period of time after the oil issue? It's terrible either way but if it was just a brief minute or two it might be serviceable. If it was ran until it soft seized then you could be assured some damage was done or a catastrophic amount was done. Have you attempted a compression test? Try draining the oil and see what contaminants or debis is in the oil you briefly ran it on. Was it knocking or tapping when it ran? I would do a compression test and if that shows serviceable compression then I would get a borescope to check the cylinder walls and piston. It's very possible that the engine was heavily damaged but there's no sense in throwing it out without at least checking it. I assume from what you've said that you don't have the tools to diagnose these issues. Harbor Freight has a compression test kit for $30 and you can get a cheap borescope that connects to an android phone from Amazon. Last thing, where are you located? Someone near you may be willing to check it for you.
I was riding it and it lost power and when I pulled over to the side of the road it lost power. I just rode the bike til there was no oil in it because I didn’t know it burned Through oil like that. It’s been about a month or two sitting so far. I will try out what you recommended and I am located in Wesley Chapel near Tampa. In Florida.
You can find engines on Ebay for 500-700 bucks, depending on mileage. Shipping is another hundred. When I rebuilt the top end only on my VTX1800 I spent about 700 including machine work. Collecting parts is an adventure.
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I was riding it and it lost power and when I pulled over to the side of the road it lost power. I just rode the bike til there was no oil in it because I didn’t know it burned Through oil like that. It’s been about a month or two sitting so far. I will try out what you recommended and I am located in Wesley Chapel near Tampa. In Florida.
Damn! We had a member on here from Westley Chapel until a few years ago when he moved to NC. His wife had a 1300 that he lent me for a group ride a few years ago during the Holidays up to Mt. Dora area. He had an 1800 all painted up like the Tampa Bay Bucs. fmyers007.
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Damn! We had a member on here from Westley Chapel until a few years ago when he moved to NC. His wife had a 1300 that he lent me for a group ride a few years ago during the Holidays up to Mt. Dora area. He had an 1800 all painted up like the Tampa Bay Bucs. fmyers007.
I am saddened to report that the woman mentioned by PaXman11, Tina, died of Covid about a year ago :(
I am saddened to report that the woman mentioned by PaXman11, Tina, died of Covid about a year ago :(
Im sorry to hear that ❤
Is taking out a 1300 engine the same process as the 1800? Also if y’all could link and other good videos on it that would be great, I can only find one that is eh.
I am saddened to report that the woman mentioned by PaXman11, Tina, died of Covid about a year ago :(
OMG! Jim, thats so sad to hear! Frank & Tina were some of the really great folks I've met during my VTX ownership. Would you happen to know how Frank is doing? He's up in your area (NC) somewhere. Sorry for any unintentional thread hijack.
Yes, a motorcycle jack will work to move the frame off of the engine. On my 1800 I used a motorcycle jack to suspend the frame, and then galvanized steel pipe from Lowes on 4 jack stands to suspend the engine. I built wooden pads to elevate the jackstands so they were not at full extension and I had some room for adjustments to the angle of the engine. I used a pair of 6 ton and a pair of 3 ton. I performed the removal on my 8 ft wide patio. Take all the chrome off the engine cases that you can, or you will scratch it up. Especially the chrome on the clutch side. I took off the front wheel, radiator, intake, pulled the front exhaust studs, and everything plumbing related to have as much room as possible. I removed the rear wheel and drive shaft to help disconnect the u-joint from the engine, it is easier to pull the engine with the front u joint completely removed. . On the 1800 the wire loom also follows under the backbone of the frame and I had to move that to the side as much as I could as well. On my 1800 the case where the starter bolts on interfered with the motor mount that is welded to the frame so I used long tapered wood construction shims on two points under the left side of the frame to tilt it to the right for that mount to clear the case where the starter mounts. I am pretty sure 4 was the magic number. It is a tedious task due to tight clearances, but do-able. You just have to take it slow, you cannot force it out, or back in, you have to finesse it.
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