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This X has been sitting for at least 3 years. What should I do to PREPARE it before I attempt to crank it?
 

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Drain the tank. Inspect for rust. If any it will need cleaned and possibly sealed. What year? the early years had the fuel pump and filter inside the tank. These too will likely need replaced. When you do fill the tank, only use 87 octane fuel. Add a can of Seafoam to the tank, and a can for the first couple tanks thereafter, and then half can every 4-5 tanks and for future storage like over winter. It's a shame when these bikes aren't loved enough to treat them right. Have the battery fully charged, and taken out to an auto parts dealer that will do a 100 amp load test. NOT the 20amp motorcycle load test! The battery can show 12+ volts and still have a weak cell or 2 and give problems. Cranking with a weak battery can lead to other issues, like welding the starter solenoid or switch contacts. Those are another maintenance item to consider after you get it running. Where have you been for 10 years? Welcome back.
 
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Mine sat two years and fired right up. Had all the fluids changed before storage though. Gas was not the greatest but a can of seafoam in it before storage kept it decent. I still drained it all out. Easy to do just get you a little bit of vacuum line and the fuel line from auto store. Attach the fuel line to petcock and run into can. Apply vacuum by mouth or a pump to the new vacuum hose and gas will flow out.

I will disagree the first couple tanks run the higher octane. Lot of detergents in that but not in 87. Can't hurt to help clean things out. Then go back to 87 for normal use.
 

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I run 91 every time I fill id this is a bad thing?
Low compression engine in the VTX will never need the extra octane. There are added detergents and things in higher grade fuel though. Most would just say you are throwing money away but that is your choice. This comes up a lot here mainly people coming from other brands that need the higher octane but the VTX is tuned for 87. Even if you mess with tuning carb you still run 87 all day long no issues.

My Vic needs high octane fuel or it pings but it also has timing advances and other things I could never do with my carb VTX.
 

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Im assuming this is for the 1300...
Well depending on how much you want to. If it was me, I would dobthe following:

1) get battery tested as suggested...and then get a battery tender so you never have to worry about it again.
2) change oil and filter
3) drain the tank as suggested
4) I would open the peacock valve and clean it out
5) remove carb and clean it out. There are instructions here to do that. Everything I did this after several years of sitting, I certainly felt the difference. I think its worth the time and effort. I have video that I did that you can follow if you want. Here is the link.

Good luck!



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Low compression engine in the VTX will never need the extra octane. There are added detergents and things in higher grade fuel though. Most would just say you are throwing money away but that is your choice. This comes up a lot here mainly people coming from other brands that need the higher octane but the VTX is tuned for 87. Even if you mess with tuning carb you still run 87 all day long no issues.

My Vic needs high octane fuel or it pings but it also has timing advances and other things I could never do with my carb VTX.
It is my understanding that you are mixing up things... Additives are based off of brand, not octane. So if you go to a higher end gas station, the additives would be the same across all octanes. Octane is purely based off of compression needed to properly detonate.
 

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I run 91 every time I fill id this is a bad thing?
It is my understanding that you are mixing up things... Additives are based off of brand, not octane. So if you go to a higher end gas station, the additives would be the same across all octanes. Octane is purely based off of compression needed to properly detonate.
that is what i thought too...just easy enough to add either the chevron or sea foam...

running high octane on low octane required engines does not have a negative effect from what I've understood.

however, the opposite is true...when you required to have high octane, use high octane...you will get engine damage over time even with all the sophisticated knock sensors and all now a days on cars...you can definitely noticed a significant difference in performance when you put low octane in a high octane required car.
 

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The only detrimental effect of running high octane fuel in a bike designed to run on low octane fuel (e.g. the VTX1300) is on the weight of your wallet. Some find this important. Others do not. What I really do not like is the folks that believe that high octane fuel in a low compression bike is somehow better for performance.
 

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It is my understanding that you are mixing up things... Additives are based off of brand, not octane. So if you go to a higher end gas station, the additives would be the same across all octanes. Octane is purely based off of compression needed to properly detonate.
Brand doesn't mean much. Assuming you go to a station with top tier gas they will all have good level of additives which they all market by whatever buzz word their feel like. Go to an off brand station without the top tier then you are back to old minimum government standards which still have higher detergents in premium flavors.
 

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The ethanol in all brands, all octanes, is what is BAD for anything that runs on gasoline. The only other thing I would advocate if you can get it, is UN-ethanol'd fuel, just like the good old days. Usually found in either 90 or 93 octane. For the cleaning properties, not for performance gains, although some who have done dyno tuning or re-jetting have reported gains along those lines. Shell is one brand that sells unethanol. Someone who has access to a boat marina or airport fuel depot can get unethanol there too. Be prepared to pay .30-.50 or more per gal.
 

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this debate comes around about every year.... 16 years worth.


to benefit from high test fuel.. you must be able to advance your timing 5 to 10 degrees...

side statement....

High Test... is a LOST term to the younger generation... High Octane is the new name.
I guess.
 

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It doesn't matter on my pocket cause I really just don't care so as long as I'm not being harmed by it is rather just use the better gas then , the front end was knocking allot and has since stopped and the bike has been riding at high speed just so much better since my lil tweeks on it like gas airfilter oil change final drive oil change brakes and this weekend I'm dropping the coolant , does anyone know how to change brakes fluid ? Do I need to ? I'm at 20,000 miles and/buy I'm going on a cross country ride soon and want to be fully ready to go also just put perelli route 66 tires on the bike for the first week it rode so weird and once they wore down a bit oh man it ridss like a dream come true no shaking no nothing just smooth sailing at 80mph love it and also great handling on highways
 

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If it looks like pee or ice tea, change it.
 
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so is the 80mph Honda odometer ....or actual :) our odometer are are 10% higher than actual speed

its pretty simple to do...if oil is discolored
1) get a vacuum pump from harbor freight and do it that way
2) or get new bleeding nipples that have a spring and a ball in it...just loosen, attach a bag with a hose to it and just simple pump the fluid to flush through
i've got a video on that too...but will need to find it.
 

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YES change brake fluid. Do not slack on that.
It's not difficult and your brakes will work much better.
Check the pads too, riding fast is fun but stopping when you want to is better. :)
 

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Put fresh gas and seafoam and check the oil and tires then fix it as you can as it needs it
 

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<snip>I'm going on a cross country ride soon and want to be fully ready to go <snip more>
Give a shout if your long trip takes you into western North Carolina. I would be happy to take you on some great rides here and you could bunk at our place overnight if needed.
 
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