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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I'm in nearby Lakewood. I pull the choke out enough to give it a fast idle,
let it run while I put on my gloves and helmet, after I take off and
get to the end of my very short street, I push the choke knob back in.
I do get some hesitation if I have to stop and go, but but by the time
I get to the 91, about 1 mile away, it's running fine and I can get WOT
up the on ramp like the ill-famed bat.

Maybe your plugs are fouled?
ahoy from Compton, 90221 (the nicer side).

New plugs, old ones weren't too bad. (i read early on about using too much choke would foul 'em). The more i think about it, the more it makes sense about upping the idle speed. Thanks for the input! :choppersm
 

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Just a note. A properly tuned VTX1300 does not need the choke. Since it is not a conventional choke, it is actually dumping in MORE fuel instead of changing the air/fuel mixture like a butterfly style choke. When tuned, all that is required on cold startup is a couple twists of the throttle and the pushing the start buton. Then for about 30-45 seconds to a minute you will need to hold the throttle until it will idle. If need be you can turn the idle up with the knob under the airbox to maintain an idle but turn it back down to ride. I hold hte throttle about 30 secs or so and then all is good.
 

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Stalling from Cold Start

You might be overthinking the problem, an error we all make. Right now, the mornings here in Iowa are in the sixties, and my 1300S will do the same thing if I start it and try to ride it. rmncR has the right idea, I think. I use the choke only rarely, because if it's left on very long it WILL foul the plugs. I give the throttle two twists and press the starter. When it starts, I set the throttle lock to hold it at idle. It will run roughly at first, then smooth out. Like rmncR, I gear up, and by the time I take it off the lock it's running fine. The 1300 is cold-blooded by nature. When temps are below 30 degrees, it may take a couple of attempts before it will idle enough to set the lock. I know from visiting my son in Carlsbad that it does get pretty cool in CA at night, and this affects the engine's ability to warm up promptly. BTW, I think this may be something of a characteristic of non-automotive Honda engines. I have a lawn mower that will stall out if I try to engage the blade brake clutch without a warmup of several seconds. For all of that, they make great products. Good luck, and ride safely! PastorGene
 

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there was also a recall on some of the petcocks so you may have a dealer run your vin to see if you have one of the bad ones.

you also need to open the A/F 1/4 to 1/2 turn, choke is ok if you follow the book but many can't or don't read the proper use and that is where the fouling of the plugs comes in.
 

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You might be overthinking the problem, an error we all make. Right now, the mornings here in Iowa are in the sixties, and my 1300S will do the same thing if I start it and try to ride it. rmncR has the right idea, I think. I use the choke only rarely, because if it's left on very long it WILL foul the plugs. I give the throttle two twists and press the starter. When it starts, I set the throttle lock to hold it at idle. It will run roughly at first, then smooth out. Like rmncR, I gear up, and by the time I take it off the lock it's running fine. The 1300 is cold-blooded by nature. When temps are below 30 degrees, it may take a couple of attempts before it will idle enough to set the lock. I know from visiting my son in Carlsbad that it does get pretty cool in CA at night, and this affects the engine's ability to warm up promptly. BTW, I think this may be something of a characteristic of non-automotive Honda engines. I have a lawn mower that will stall out if I try to engage the blade brake clutch without a warmup of several seconds. For all of that, they make great products. Good luck, and ride safely! PastorGene
Funny you should mention the non automotive engines. At the company I work for all of our small equipment has Honda engines on them. Every single one of them is cold blooded. The colder the morning the longer they have to be warmed up. Even if it is in the 70's in the morning they still run like crap until warm. My bike does kinda the same thing, I just chalked it up to being a Honda. Other than being cold blooded Honda engines are the best out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I've turned up the idle speed. I now realize how low it was, especially when cold; it had that slow thumping of a harley. now it is a constant purr. hoping it doesn't suddenly die on me again. thank you all for the input!

ride safe! :choppersm
 

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I agree with other folks that recommend opening A/F some and increasing idle RPM a llittle. Sounds like a little lean in the cool of morning, should crank and run better if you crank it with warmer temperature up in the day. Use your choke (enrichment valve) if you need it, that's why Honda hung it on the bike...cold starts. If you use your throttle (accelerator pump) or choke (enrichment valve) before starting your engine, they are doing the same thing, adding fuel to crank with. Back a hundred years ago and the old car wouldn't crank, you would get a pint Mason jar out and put about a fluid ounce of gasoline in it and pour into the carburetor. This would give us a rich mixture to light the engine with. Wishing you a nice day.
 

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I was having a similar problem and we found that by regapping my plugs from .3100 to .3400 and that seemed to fix it for me. Also, don't use your choke because the choke on the VTX is notorious for the choke fouling out your spark plugs.
 

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I did the scar mod on mine and don't touch the choke at all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Posted via Mobile Devicereporting back... choke lightly for a minute and all is well. i was getting worried for a bit there. over thinking did not help at all. the last stall i had was running out of gas as the light turns green.
 

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i dont know if this will help at all but i used my choke once and then i didnt push it all the way back in and my bike acted the exact same way until i figured it out. It was only out a touch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
UPDATE:
Glens tool arrived a few weeks ago. Adjusted the a/f 1/4 out, and viola! I've been riding with a smile. That is, until today, it happened again. Bike starts, runs while feathering throttle or some choke. It will die, i restart and all is well; not today. wont start up again. I'm sure it'll start when i get home though.
So, i got to thinking: my exhaust is stock in design, but it has been heavily gutted out. They are what i would think is free flowing. You can hear me coming 6 blocks out. so, does this mean a scar mod is in order here?
 

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I dont think a SCAR mod would be due for you.

Im in the same boat, bike-wise.

New '06 1300R, Clayton Mod (7 holes, all deep). Other than that, Bone Stock, 6 weeks old, 1900mi. (Yes, its new, '06, off showroom floor 6 weeks ago... long story, but in a nutshell, it was a title mixup and he couldnt sell the bike w/o a title)

However, I'm in the Midwest, so it gets cold (and I ride in the cold). They sure dont like the cold (60 or below, she gives me a fit to stay idling for a good 3-4 minutes). I NEVER use the choke. Never have, never will..

Seems to me your condition improved when you gave it more fuel, so logic dictates "Fuel Starvation".

I would take a look at a few things..

1) Type of Gas. Same all the time? Mix up the brands? Any consistency there if you think about it? I have had stations with some seriously crappy gas.

2) ALL rubber Venting/Air-type lines. These being Cracked, Split, loose, etc. can cause issues you are experiencing.

3) Electric, I would take a quick look at too. Everything tight? Nothing lookin bad at the ECM module? Broken wires, etc? I still stand by Fuel Starvation, but this is a common issue with VTX's.

I would also shy away from doing too much adjusting on the A/F, but I would turn it all the way in, and see where your setting is At Currently. They are Notoriously Lean from the Factory, and with the turning you did, you may still not be rich enough. I even spoke with my trusted mechanic about this, and he said, yes, you can turn it out 1/8 to 1/4 turn and richen it up a little and it WILL run Better.

Have you Ever had the gas tank off the bike? If yes, I would be looking hard at all those Air-Type hoses (Vaccum, Vent, blah, blah).

There was something with the Petcock also.. Can't remember exactly, but someone will chime in here about it.. Venting the fuel tank or something? Maybe when it quits, take off the gas cap and see if there is a Sucking Sound?

Fuel Filter is another one that popped into my head, but that would be more of a consistent problem. Something in the gas tank, maybe? Doesnt block the hole all the time, but once in awhile it does? To diagnose this, I would give the bike some good left/right movement to shake up the tank and try it (ie: moving the object away from the hole).

(Im "thinking out loud" at this point...)

Keep in touch about this! I'd like to know for any future issues that may arise!

-Gonz
 

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Just joined the forum and have the same cold start issues. Thanks for all the suggestions - looking ofrward to trying them. 2004 model and loving it
 

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don't want to hijack - but how many fuel lines do you have?

Also, check ALL your fuel lines on the petcock and the one under the right rear of the tank to make sure they are all in place.
Hi MSCALES - don't want to hijack this thread - but how many fuel lines do you have?
I removed my tank last weekend to install glens permanet AF-Tool and all i had to remove was one fuelline, which went from the petcock to the gaspump.

Now i am a bit puzzled - am i missing something??? :hmm2::confused::hmm2:

thanks for "enlighten" me in advance

ride safe
harry
:choppersm
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Checked all fuel lines, found the one on the right rear was torn and barely hanging on. there was enough slack so i cut the end and connected it. bike turned on this morning fine with the choke.

i thought this tube was only a vent tube. is it also related to fuel delivery?
-john
 

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Checked all fuel lines, found the one on the right rear was torn and barely hanging on. there was enough slack so i cut the end and connected it. bike turned on this morning fine with the choke.

i thought this tube was only a vent tube. is it also related to fuel delivery?
-john
Not related to fuel delivery unless crimped. It is only a vent tube.

I read through these posts and it seems that there can only be two sources of your problem. 1 Bad fuel petcock, or 2. Sticking float valve in the carb. There is a recall on the 07-08 fuel petcock - but maybe you got a bad one too. Some fuel system cleaner might help the carb situation if it exists. Other than those causes, some kind of intermittent electrical problem is all I can think of.

Harry - 1300 has only one fuel line and one vacuum line at the tank. 1800 has two fuel lines - one to the fuel pump and a return line back to the tank.
 

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it was 28 this morn,went for a ride at lunch and was 55,full chole press starter button then push choke almost all the way(leave out enuff to increase idle) and ride off,a mile or 2 push all the way in,plus got to change over the awl to 1040 from 1540 later on maybe tomorrow
cheers!
 
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