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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! I'm having issues with a 1300 fuel problem. The bike runs just fine but when its Idling or in low rpm and I give it a lot of gas, it stalls or bogs. If it’s idling, it will die unless I immediately let off. At low rpm, it will just bog. At highway speeds, if I twist hard, it initially bogs and then usually overcomes.

Earlier this summer when this started happening it begin pouring gas out the carb breather line. I took off the carb and had it cleaned by a dealer who also installed a new kit, including the diaphragm. It doesn’t pour gas but still bogs. Plugs are pretty clean but smell like gas which makes sense.

I’m pretty sure it’s running really rich. Does anyone know what might be wrong here? Vacuum leak? Mixture setting?
 

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Sounds like you need to have the carb tuned using ONLY a Factory Pro jet kit. Also, check the carb bowl float to see if it is stuck open. Remove the oil dipstick and smell the oil. Does it smell like fuel?
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Sounds like you need to have the carb tuned using ONLY a Factory Pro jet kit. Also, check the carb bowl float to see if it is stuck open. Remove the oil dipstick and smell the oil. Does it smell like fuel?
The carb was cleaned and a new kit was installed by a dealer, so I'm guessing they installed a factory kit. It has a new bowl as well. It was completely disassembled, ultrasonically cleaned, and new kit/diaphragm/bowl installed. Outside of the bogging, it runs better than it has in awhile. Unfortunately the oil does have a slight gas smell to it. It's not totally saturated but it does have a bit of gas smell.

Don't know if it makes any difference, but this is a very low mileage bike...has about 12k on it.
 

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Do NOT ride the bike until you change the oil since it sounds like it is contaminated with fuel. This is often caused by a leaky petcock coupled with a carb float valve that is stuck open. You can test both of these things. "Factory Pro" is a brand of jet kit. It is unlikely that a dealer used this brand of kit. You need to find out exactly what the "stealer" did when they "installed a new kit". Was this just replacing some rubber parts or a true new set of jets and needle. In any case, I would bet that whatever they put in was not tuned properly. Buy a Factory Pro brand jet kit, Glen's permanent A/F screw, and dimpled block off plates. Stay away from the dealer/stealer and install all three of these yourself and then tune the carb using the instructions found here in the VTX Cafe. Of course, the tuning of the jet kit will likely require several forays into the carb to install different jets or move the needle clip position.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do NOT ride the bike until you change the oil since it sounds like it is contaminated with fuel. This is often caused by a leaky petcock coupled with a carb float valve that is stuck open. You can test both of these things. "Factory Pro" is a brand of jet kit. It is unlikely that a dealer used this brand of kit. You need to find out exactly what the "stealer" did when they "installed a new kit". Was this just replacing some rubber parts or a true new set of jets and needle. In any case, I would bet that whatever they put in was not tuned properly. Buy a Factory Pro brand jet kit, Glen's permanent A/F screw, and dimpled block off plates. Stay away from the dealer/stealer and install all three of these yourself and then tune the carb using the instructions found here in the VTX Cafe. Of course, the tuning of the jet kit will likely require several forays into the carb to install different jets or move the needle clip position.
thanks! I’m not sure the kit is the problem as the issue existed beforehand with the OE parts and after the cleaning/rebuild. It’s exactly the same issue. The bike actually runs better than it has for awhile except for the bogging issue. The fuel in the oil is most likely caused before the rebuild at the very least.

I will definitely change the oil before I ride it again but hopefully I can get the issue solved beforehand as I don’t want to change it a third time.

thanks!
 

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The problem that existed before was not solved with the incorrect jet kit and probably lack of tuning that the stealer performed or, more accurately, did NOT perform. The bogging problem is best solved with the steps I outlined above.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The problem that existed before was not solved with the incorrect jet kit and probably lack of tuning that the stealer performed or, more accurately, did NOT perform. The bogging problem is best solved with the steps I outlined above.
So would the same issues apply if I figured out the accelerator pump is not spraying when I twist the throttle?
 

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Your bike almost certainly needs the changes I suggest to run well. However, if the accel. pump is not spraying anything, than that needs fixed first and then work on the other things.
 
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I had a similar problem with my 1300R at the beginning of the summer, would run great on the highway and try to stall at low idle like stop signs or lights, I finally had enough and brought a new carburetor, problem solved, rode to New Orleans and back plus the entire summer with no problem.
 

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Hi all! I'm having issues with a 1300 fuel problem. The bike runs just fine but when its Idling or in low rpm and I give it a lot of gas, it stalls or bogs. If it’s idling, it will die unless I immediately let off. At low rpm, it will just bog. At highway speeds, if I twist hard, it initially bogs and then usually overcomes.

Earlier this summer when this started happening it begin pouring gas out the carb breather line. I took off the carb and had it cleaned by a dealer who also installed a new kit, including the diaphragm. It doesn’t pour gas but still bogs. Plugs are pretty clean but smell like gas which makes sense.

I’m pretty sure it’s running really rich. Does anyone know what might be wrong here? Vacuum leak? Mixture setting?
I've been having the same issue. I took it in had the carb rebuilt and tuned when I bought it. Complete with new jets. They told me that for whatever reason the bike is running stupid rich and can't tune it anymore as the jet is maxed out in that direction. Only solution I have found (and I'm currently checking into it is a Dyno jet system. Essentially whenever you take off you're flooding out the carb
 

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Very few people have success installing a Dynojet jet kit on a VTX1300. The preferred jet kit for the VTX1300 is the Factory Pro jet kit. People have much more success tuning these than the Dynojet jet kits. I highly recommend using the FP jet kit.
 
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As @Vinish said, skip Dynojet's jet kit and go Factory Pro. Dynojet is great for all their other products (I would never knock them as a company), their needle design for our carb is not as good as the Factory Pro's needle.
 
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