VTX1300 Rear Brake Pedal not returning

544 Views 9 Replies 2 Participants Last post by jables, 4 d ago

jables

When I use the rear brake pedal, it doesn't return to it's 'neutral-non-braking' position. I plan on disassembling the brake pivot and greasing it, but I was wondering what this (pictured below) was in the meantime? The spring attached to the screwing thing that looks like it could adjust the spring to pull the brake pedal up? I noticed that when I pull the pedal up, the spring is no longer in contact with where it attaches to the pedal lever. One more, is this something that happens as the brake pads get lower? They need changed this season, but I plan on riding on them for another month or two.

Does it have any effect on the return of the brake pedal? Having issues finding a clear answer on my own.
Recently got the bike. Totally in love with it, just needed some TLC. The bike was laid over by the owner before previous, but it's just got a few dents and scratches.

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kinda far /\ kinda close /\
this is it \/

this spring screw thing that looks like it could be adjusted? what is it?

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Fulkrum

· #2 · 23 d ago

The piece the spring is attached to is the rear brake pedal switch for the brake light.
It should operate smoothly but it's doubtful it is the cause of your problem.
More then likely the brake pedal pivot assembly has corrosion on it and needs maintenance.
Disassemble the brake pedal assembly, clean everything, use fine sand paper or emery cloth on any heavy corrosion.
Grease everything and put it back together.

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jables

Discussion Starter · #3 · 23 d ago

Fulkrum said:
The piece the spring is attached to is the rear brake pedal switch for the brake light.
It should operate smoothly but it's doubtful it is the cause of your problem.
More then likely the brake pedal pivot assembly has corrosion on it and needs maintenance.
Disassemble the brake pedal assembly, clean everything, use fine sand paper or emery cloth on any heavy corrosion.
Grease everything and put it back together.

Sprayed the pivot with some grease just to see and it started moving back to the original position.. Definitely gonna disassemble and do what you said. Thanks for the advice!

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jables

Discussion Starter · #4 · 22 d ago (Edited)

Cleaned and greased the pivot. It was very much in need. I've noticed that there's still the slightest bit of free movement at the top of the brake, but it officially releases itself now.

Still wish it were better, but I assume that fresh pads and a flush will help with that.

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Fulkrum

· #5 · 22 d ago

jables said:
I've noticed that there's still the slightest bit of free movement at the top of the brake,

A little bit of free play in the pedal is normal i.e. you press the pedal and it moves ever so slightly before it starts to engage the brakes.
Not sure if that's what your meaning.
The pedal on my 1800c wouldn't freely return and I had to disassemble and clean/grease as well. 20yr old machines..

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jables

Discussion Starter · #6 · 22 d ago

I'll put it this way. When I brake at a stoplight, I can hear the brake grab the rotors. It doesn't full release them until a few feet after I release the brake pedal when I start again. It's just barely there, but I can tell it's not releasing all the way immediately.

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Fulkrum

· #7 · 22 d ago (Edited)

jables said:
I'll put it this way. When I brake at a stoplight, I can hear the brake grab the rotors. It doesn't full release them until a few feet after I release the brake pedal when I start again. It's just barely there, but I can tell it's not releasing all the way immediately.

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If I was trying to track down a rear brake that was slightly dragging.
I would check that the brake pedal operates smoothly when disconnected from the Rear Brake Master Cylinder
If it does and I was confident the brake pedal isn't the source then I would jack the rear of the bike up and get the weight off the rear tire.
Spinning the rear tire I would check if I could feel or hear any brake dragging from the pads on the rotor.
In my experience it is not unusual for some slight amount of drag to be heard but not felt.
If there is a significant amount of drag and it's not coming from the pedal it would seem like the most likely causes then would be:
Worn or damaged/defective brake pad
A worn or bent brake rotor
The rear caliper not sliding side to side smoothly on it's pins
The rear brake caliper piston not smoothly retracting after the brakes have been applied.
Something in the Rear Master Cylinder, this being the least likely if I were guessing.

What color is the brake fluid? When was the last time it was changed?

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jables

Discussion Starter · #8 · 22 d ago

Fulkrum said:
View attachment 246241
If I was trying to track down a rear brake that was slightly dragging.
I would check that the brake pedal operates smoothly when disconnected from the Rear Brake Master Cylinder
If it does and I was confident the brake pedal isn't the source then I would jack the rear of the bike up and get the weight off the rear tire.
Spinning the rear tire I would check if I could feel or hear any brake dragging from the pads on the rotor.
In my experience it is not unusual for some slight amount of drag to be heard but not felt.
If there is a significant amount of drag and it's not coming from the pedal it would seem like the most likely causes then would be:
Worn or damaged/defective brake pad
A worn or bent brake rotor
The rear caliper not sliding side to side smoothly on it's pins
The rear brake caliper piston not smoothly retracting after the brakes have been applied.
Something in the Rear Master Cylinder, this being the least likely if I were guessing.

What color is the brake fluid? When was the last time it was changed?

Damn that's helpful. Thanks so much!

I checked it again yesterday, looked amber but not dark. I bought a fresh bottle and I'll prolly bleed 'em soon. The pedal is smooth after the clean 'n' grease.

The rear tire was just replaced at a dealership, so I haven't jacked it up myself and spun it yet. Will do that.
Since it was greased, I've only heard the drag - not felt it. BUT it definitely needs new pads. I'm curious if it will be more noticeable or less after I do replace them..

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Fulkrum

· #9 · 22 d ago

jables said:
Damn that's helpful. Thanks so much!

I checked it again yesterday, looked amber but not dark. I bought a fresh bottle and I'll prolly bleed 'em soon. The pedal is smooth after the clean 'n' grease.

The rear tire was just replaced at a dealership, so I haven't jacked it up myself and spun it yet. Will do that.
Since it was greased, I've only heard the drag - not felt it. BUT it definitely needs new pads. I'm curious if it will be more noticeable or less after I do replace them..

The rear pads on my 1800c can be changed in like 10 minutes, it's super simple. I would assume the pads on the 1300 are changed in the same/similar process.
Pads are cheap, rotors are not. Rear OEM pads for my 1800 are about $60 +/- depending on where ya get them, the rotor is about $180.
Make sure you change the pads before they start to wear into and damage the rotor.
If you don't have the maintenance history of the bike you might want to go ahead and flush and replace/refill the brake fluid in the system.
Service manual for my 1800 calls for brake fluid to be replaced every 12,000 miles or 24 months whichever comes first.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture even from the humidity in the air which can cause issues long term with the brake system.

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jables

Discussion Starter · #10 · 4 d ago

Replaced pads and bled the brakes. Went ahead and did the front too. Still having issues with that little bit right at the top of the pedal. Next thing I'm gonna try is the pivot assembly.

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