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Just get this kit and remove the PAIR system altogether...makes future valve adjustments easier with all that crap out, too.

Thank you! I've seen these and was wondering why people do this mod to this extreme. Most bikes have a pair valve and most often the fix is something as simple as I've described. Often just a marble in the hose is the end of it.

So I'll look at getting the plates. If I have to take the tank off and I'm going to be spending a lot of time under there already I might do this mod but unless there's a really good reason to turn a wrench for just this mod I need to know. Thanks.
 

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2009 VTX 1300R, Long Island NY
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The Progressive bushings arrived today...must be pretty awesome, because I had to sign for their delivery. I haven't taken them out of the package, but they feel pretty sturdy when I squeeze them. They're black in color but feel like poly bushings...I'm used to seeing the green poly bushings that Honda sells for the stock shocks.
They are... I ended up needing my shop press to get the new bushings in. It was a job. You can clearly tell, you will never have to change them again. They are way stronger than the Honda green bushings, and they actually wrap around the eye (which is why it is difficult to get in).

Still not sure why Progressive doesn't just increase the cost of the shocks and just install them from their factory. I learned about the rubber bushing issues before installing my progressive shocks, so I installed these bushings on first install of the shocks.
 

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2007 1300C
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Still not sure why Progressive doesn't just increase the cost of the shocks and just install them from their factory.
They cost enough already!!!!
 
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They cost enough already!!!!
True. They should do it at current costs. But if they are going to make everyone buy these kits after, it would be cheaper on everyone to slightly increase the cost, and only have to supply one bushing type...
 

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Glens Clutch Pull Relief:
Now this is something I'm interested in. Advertises 50% less pull for the clutch. Mines a little tight and after a while of slow riding my hand cramps up a bit. Worth it? And is it an easy DIY job?
Thanks.
 

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Yes, it is worth it. Yes, you can do it yourself. It involved drilling out a rivet or you can "rent" a rivet buster from Glen.
 
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It really lightens clutch pull, takes 20-30 minutes, pretty easy IMO
 
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Make sure to adjust it so that you still get a tiny bit of freeplay in the clutch lever. Then make sure the clutch is not slipping by performing this test: Get into 4th gear going about 35 mph (yes, this is too low a speed to normally be in 4th gear). Twist the throttle wide open and see if the clutch slips. Without a tach, this is harder to do but you can discern clutch slip by noise also. If the engine noise (rpms) slowly build as you go faster, then the clutch is NOT slipping. If the noise gets notably louder right away, dies off some, and then steadily increases, then the clutch is slipping. This noise pattern is caused by the engine rpms increasing out of proportion to the bike speed and then the engine slowing down as the bike speed "catches up" to the engine speed.
 

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I just washed the bike, put it up on the wooden stand, drained the carb, sprayed WD-40 in the throat of the carb, covered it, and connected it to the battery tender for another summer. :cry:
 

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I just washed the bike, put it up on the wooden stand, drained the carb, sprayed WD-40 in the throat of the carb, covered it, and connected it to the battery tender for another summer. :cry:
An easier way is to put some Seafoam in the tank, fill it with fresh gas and ride for a few miles to circulate the system..then put it on the stand. When you're ready to ride, just fire it up.
 

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An easier way is to put some Seafoam in the tank, fill it with fresh gas and ride for a few miles to circulate the system..then put it on the stand. When you're ready to ride, just fire it up.
Actually, I add Sta-Bil to the tank and FILL the tank before I layup. Leaving any fuel in the carb leads to varnish. WD-40 lightly coats the inside of the carburetor with rust-preventative, which I deem important in Fort Myers humidity.

Also, I only run on NON-Ethanol. I blame ethanol for the premature demise of my diaphragm.
241606

See those evenly-spaced slits? They should not be there.
 

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Actually, I add Sta-Bil to the tank and FILL the tank before I layup. Leaving any fuel in the carb leads to varnish. WD-40 lightly coats the inside of the carburetor with rust-preventative, which I deem important in Fort Myers humidity.

Also, I only run on NON-Ethanol. I blame ethanol for the premature demise of my diaphragm.
See those evenly-spaced slits? They should not be there.
I'm just northwest of Houston and deal with the same weather you do, including the humidity. I've replaced my slide diaphragm once in 17+ years, due to a small pinhole. I've never had a problem starting the bike after an extended time parked, and I do exactly what I recommended...all with ethanol gas. I think I filled up one time with ethanol-free gas to see if it made a difference in MPG...it didn't.

Rubber anything on our bikes won't last forever, and that goes for any motor vehicle. But since your solution works, keep it up. For me, that's overkill. (y)
 

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Actually, I add Sta-Bil to the tank and FILL the tank before I layup. Leaving any fuel in the carb leads to varnish. WD-40 lightly coats the inside of the carburetor with rust-preventative, which I deem important in Fort Myers humidity.

Also, I only run on NON-Ethanol. I blame ethanol for the premature demise of my diaphragm. View attachment 241606
See those evenly-spaced slits? They should not be there.

I LOVE,LOVE,LOVE Ethanol free gas! Use it on all my small engines. Lawn equipment, snow blower, cycle etc........ We don't have it anywhere on Long Island but Upstate NY I have a vacation home and fill 5 gallon cans to bring home. Did I mention how much i LOVE ethanol free gas? Been doing it for years and it makes my life so much easier. I hate fiddling with carburetors
 

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Did the pair valve removal. I need to let the bike cool after the test ride and check the exhaust bolts then. I know the pair valve plates are right.

Edit: Rear cylinder exhaust header is leaking. When it's cold in the morning I'm going to try and tighten it up.

Edit2: The nuts on the rear exhaust header tightened up just fine. Pop gone.
 

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Not today but tomorrow. Will be putting on Cobra Swept floorboards, a clutch relief kit and sanding and painting (with a brush) the black brackets for the floorboards. Brush won't be an issue. It's way down low and I just want to get the surface rust off.
 

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Thanks to this forum I just put on the clutch relief kit. Instructions were VERY good , though I did remove a bracket and the clutch line bracket to better get to the rivet. (not in instructions) A very, very small complaint. Took my baby out for a quick ride, returned and adjusted the line a bit, then rode for 80 miles today. NO issues at all and my hand and wrist thanks me. Slow riding and friction zone turns etc... were cramping my hand. It took me about an hour but that was with really taking my time. I nicked up my cable pull a bit bending it back so the clutch cable was "in-line". Can see that in the picture. With that being my only screw up, I'll take it! :)


241667


241668

 

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And one more post. I have had the bike less than 2 months so I'm doing a lot to it. I really don't like the pegs so I put Cobra Swept floorboards on and at the same time engine guards from National Paladin. So happy I went with Cobra rather than getting some of the cheaper options out there. Everything lined up and they look and feel well made. The engine guards give me some comfort when I'm doing my slow run practices to continue improving my skills.
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