[whiteboycustom]

just like that title says....whats going to warp a rear brake rotor? the dealership removed my rear tire when i took it to have the rims powdercoated,when i got my bike back i was having noise in the rear and now they say the rotor is warped and brake pads need replacing


trying to figure out how i can bring a bike in with no issues and leave with a warped rotor

 

[DaytonaVTX]

the only thing that will warp a rotor is heat. your brakes may be rubbing, if you brake is sticking then one pad will be worn more than the other. May be that you never noticed it before. Did you look to see if there is any sign of the rotor being hit.
I know they bake on powder coat but I think it is only done at about 275 or 300 deg. not hot enough to worp anything.

 

[BigJon]

The rotor would have, or should have, been removed to powdercoat the rims. At 2400 miles, you shouldn't have any problems with the caliper sticking or need new pads. How many miles did you ride it when you got it back? Were the caliper and pads installed correctly? Were new rotor bolts installed and torqued properly?

 

[rs42sport]

Look at ur caliper locate the pin holding the pads see if it's corroded... Hopefully the place didn't powder coated the area where the rotor sits

 

[whiteboycustom]

i have about 5600 miles now, i need to update that

the rim is the only thing that was coated

ive rode it a few 100 miles since i got it back and it was only a few days after i got it back that i noticed the sound( i made another post about it) and i even took it back to the dealership within a week or so of getting it done for them to check it out and they said everything was fine

 

[The Chief]

Did they Powder Coat the Wheel with the Rotor Off?? Then Reinstall the rotor?

If so - There is a chance that there is excess Paint where the Rotor mounts that may not allow the rotor to mount FLAT - Straight and true! Any Excess that overflowed onto the Mating surface for the Rotor needs to be cleaned. Even a Slight amount of paint overflow in a small area would account for a misaligned rotor and eventually after use cause the pads to wear unevenly or even warp the rotor! It might not even be warped - just misaligned ever so slightly.

My 2 Cents!

 

[mscales]

Did they Powder Coat the Wheel with the Rotor Off?? Then Reinstall the rotor?

If so - There is a chance that there is excess Paint where the Rotor mounts that may not allow the rotor to mount FLAT - Straight and true! Any Excess that overflowed onto the Mating surface for the Rotor needs to be cleaned. Even a Slight amount of paint overflow in a small area would account for a misaligned rotor and eventually after use cause the pads to wear unevenly or even warp the rotor! It might not even be warped - just misaligned ever so slightly.

My 2 Cents!

Like Chief says, there could be a buildup of material behind the rotor that would flex it. What you need to make sure of is that the rotor is WARPED or just flexed so it appears warped. Use a straight edge on the rotor and rotate the wheel and find the high/low spot. You can also unbolt the rotor and see if it flattens out. It is also possible that the wheel hub is a little warped due to the heat of powdercoating and that transfers to the rotor. To me it looks like you will need to remove the rear wheel and check a few things out.

 

[RRCCBB]

Or the stealer give you back the wrong rotor >>accidently of course>>>> so they can charge you to fix it????


I would yell an scream ....5600 miles shoudnt have any braqke issues.....
I volunteer to come help you yell and scream untill youi get new rotor for free....

 

[yfx4]

So the dealer took it apart, you took the rim to have it coated, then they reassembled it??

If there was powdercoat in a bad place on the rim when they reassembled it they own the problem. Part of putting it back together is the assertion that it is safe and properly done. Had they pointed out a problem before reassembly it would be on the powdercoat people.

My $ 0.04 (inflation)

 

[The Chief]

The best way to find out is to pull the Wheel then the Rotor. Check to see if it warped! Check for any Powder-coating on the Back of the rotor or on the mating surface. If there is any - That is the issue. There is no other reason other incompetence of installing the Rotor or Pads incorrectly for your Rotor to go bad.

Is there any bluing on the Rotor - Another good indication the Pads might be dragging or misaligned.

 

[Bassdude404]

Did they Powder Coat the Wheel with the Rotor Off?? Then Reinstall the rotor?

If so - There is a chance that there is excess Paint where the Rotor mounts that may not allow the rotor to mount FLAT - Straight and true! Any Excess that overflowed onto the Mating surface for the Rotor needs to be cleaned. Even a Slight amount of paint overflow in a small area would account for a misaligned rotor and eventually after use cause the pads to wear unevenly or even warp the rotor! It might not even be warped - just misaligned ever so slightly.

My 2 Cents!

Like Chief says, there could be a buildup of material behind the rotor that would flex it. What you need to make sure of is that the rotor is WARPED or just flexed so it appears warped. Use a straight edge on the rotor and rotate the wheel and find the high/low spot. You can also unbolt the rotor and see if it flattens out. It is also possible that the wheel hub is a little warped due to the heat of powdercoating and that transfers to the rotor. To me it looks like you will need to remove the rear wheel and check a few things out.

The best way to find out is to pull the Wheel then the Rotor. Check to see if it warped! Check for any Powder-coating on the Back of the rotor or on the mating surface. If there is any - That is the issue. There is no other reason other incompetence of installing the Rotor or Pads incorrectly for your Rotor to go bad.

Is there any bluing on the Rotor - Another good indication the Pads might be dragging or misaligned.

What they said!!...This is the first place to look...If the rotor is indeed warped, that can be caused when removing/installing the tire, depending on their tire machine....

But my guess is powdercoat build-up between the rim and rotor...

 

[whiteboycustom]

ok so i made a surprise visit since i never got a call back.......

and to let you all know the rotor was not coated, its a sumo-x rear rim so only the rim was done nothing else, but the rotor was chromed before i bought the bike(around 2200 miles)

he did show me the rotor and he had the brake pads removed and showed me when spinning the tire how it is warped

i think ill just be paying for brake pads when all said and done on this issue.....and maybe a chrome job on the rotor so it will match the front

 

[battles06]

ok so i made a surprise visit since i never got a call back.......

and to let you all know the rotor was not coated, its a sumo-x rear rim so only the rim was done nothing else, but the rotor was chromed before i bought the bike(around 2200 miles)

he did show me the rotor and he had the brake pads removed and showed me when spinning the tire how it is warped

i think ill just be paying for brake pads when all said and done on this issue.....and maybe a chrome job on the rotor so it will match the front

As others have said you should have them remove the rotor from the wheel and see if it's indeed the rotor that is causing the problem. It may be some powdercoat build up between the rotor and wheel causing the rotor to appear warped. If that's the case, replacing the rotor is only fixing the symptom and not the cause of the problem.

If you would, will you answer a few questions about the problem you were having? What was the noise you were hearing? Did you hear it constantly or only when the brake was applied?Was it difficult to push the bike around yourself?

 

[whiteboycustom]

As others have said you should have them remove the rotor from the wheel and see if it's indeed the rotor that is causing the problem. It may be some powdercoat build up between the rotor and wheel causing the rotor to appear warped. If that's the case, replacing the rotor is only fixing the symptom and not the cause of the problem.

If you would, will you answer a few questions about the problem you were having? What was the noise you were hearing? Did you hear it constantly or only when the brake was applied?Was it difficult to push the bike around yourself?

nothing with the rotor was powder coated, no powder coat touches the brake rotor but they are ordering a new rotor to make sure its the problem and its fixed

it was a clanking noise when the brake was applied and louder when the brake was pressed harder, the service guy rode it and felt it and heard it the very first time i brought it back but that time they couldnt "reproduce" the sound and as far as pushing the bike i never noticed because i only roll backwards on its own free will if its going forward its because im riding it

 

[battles06]

nothing with the rotor was powder coated, no powder coat touches the brake rotor but they are ordering a new rotor to make sure its the problem and its fixed

it was a clanking noise when the brake was applied and louder when the brake was pressed harder, the service guy rode it and felt it and heard it the very first time i brought it back but that time they couldnt "reproduce" the sound and as far as pushing the bike i never noticed because i only roll backwards on its own free will if its going forward its because im riding it

We aren't saying that the rotor is powder coated. We're saying that the area of the wheel that is in contact with the rotor when said rotor is mounted to said powder coated wheel, is now thicker because of said powder coat... That may cause the rotor to be offset or appear warped when torqued to the wheel when the problem is the thicker wheel.

Now you say clanking sound. Do you mean like the clunk from first gear to second and vise versa? What I was getting at asking about when you heard the noise, is if something was dragging against the rotor, you would hear a constant brushing noise. And if the rotor was warped, you shouldve heard a rhytmic brushing noise from the pads when they came in contact with the rotor. The reason I asked about pushing the bike around is because if something was dragging against the rotor, it would be tough to push the bike around.

Did they say what caused the rotor to warp? If it is indeed warped, how do they don't know the replacement won't warp as well?

 

[The Chief]

WBC - Our concern was more that there is residue UNDER the Rotor on the mating surface.

Glad you are getting a new one - Just make sure that after pulling it that you just check. Good Luck and please let us know what comes of it!

 

[whiteboycustom]

On the center on the rim where everything bolts up was left uncoated,I would have to go to the shop to look but I don't think anything touches the coating

As far as the noise it's not like the shifting clank........as he spun the wheel you could physically see it wasn't flat and had a wave in it or whatever you want to call it to describe it
Posted via Mobile Device

I get it now....I was thinking the backside of the rotor and not the rim
Posted via Mobile Device

 

[mscales]

The chroming process can also warp a rotor. It is best to polish the rotor since it will be scratched anyway and this will allow it to be repolished. Chrome is a add-on to the metal and can get heavy in some spots and this will create heat that can then warp the rotor. I would get a new rotor.

 

[battles06]

On the center on the rim where everything bolts up was left uncoated,I would have to go to the shop to look but I don't think anything touches the coating

As far as the noise it's not like the shifting clank........as he spun the wheel you could physically see it wasn't flat and had a wave in it or whatever you want to call it to describe it
Posted via Mobile Device

:hmm2: Interesting. The chrome still looks great? I would assume that the heat needed to warp a rotor would be sufficient to blue chrome. What I am wondering is if the chrome rotor would blue like exhaust pipes. :hmm2:

 

[whiteboycustom]

:hmm2: Interesting. The chrome still looks great? I would assume that the heat needed to warp a rotor would be sufficient to blue chrome. What I am wondering is if the chrome rotor would blue like exhaust pipes. :hmm2:

it looks to me like the pads were put in wrong because you can see where the pads were hitting just below the original ring of where the pads were, like little chips all around it

to me i am truly dumbfounded by it, he did show me a spot that had some discoloration to it but it was a very small spot