[Roa75]

Ok for a while now I have been thinking about getting rid of the spoke wheels on my '05 1300s. I am wondering if there are any problems with switching to the cast wheels that the R model comes with. I am thinking of this in order to run tubless tires, I think that I would feel much safer on radials.

Anyone have any pros or cons to this idea, and I know now I should have just bought the 1300r.

 

[Scar]

You can run R wheels on the S, no problem.

You can also run radials on the spoked wheels if you seal the nipple holes inside the rim with marine 5200 sealant (good stuff)... you can find pretty detailed instructions in this link http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=167959 -- it's a long thread... seems like the procedure is somewhere within the first 6 pages of the thread... it is covered more than once in the thread and has pics and the whole enchalada... have fun digging through the thread, but it could be worth your time.

 

[coley]

No problem at all. It's a direct swap. No cons that I've come across, but I've heard about water stains on the rims because there's no clear coat. I used Rejex soil barrier on mine and I've haven't had a problem, make sure you follow the instructions. I've noticed my bike rides a little smoother with the cast rims and radial tires and also you can plug a leak in an a emergency because they don't have tubes.....a big plus! If you want to polish them, do it before you mount them. It maskes it much easier. I used Nevr-Dull wadding along with the Mother's polishing ball mini.

 

[Green Ghost]

Weels

Plus 1 Scar, Coley, Your bike will really ride and handle better with the Cast C Wheels. Easier to care for too. You will be able to run a tubeless tire also. So you want have to be sitting on the side of the road waiting on a rollback to come and get you. You can plug it yourself. CO2 to air it up, and you'er on your way. GG

 

[DillDawg]

I am thinking of this in order to run tubless tires, I think that I would feel much safer on radials..

Tubeless does not equal radial.
There are no radials for the 1300 cast wheels (either the C or R).
They are all bias ply.

 

[Green Ghost]

Incorrect

Tubeless does not equal radial.
There are no radials for the 1300 cast wheels (either the C or R).
They are all bias ply.

They do make Raidals for the front, I know there is one on my bike now. V-Rod front tire. 120/70R/19 GG

 

[meta355]

I've been reading the manual and it says not to run radials. I know some guys are riding with them, and if they are a smoother better riding tire why doesnt the factory want us on them?

 

[Charlie D]

I've been reading the manual and it says not to run radials. I know some guys are riding with them, and if they are a smoother better riding tire why doesnt the factory want us on them?

It boils down to you don't want to mix radial and bias, now some just don't seem to understand this so Honda says bias only to cover their ass.

 

[Green Ghost]

Agreed

It boils down to you don't want to mix radial and bias, now some just don't seem to understand this so Honda says bias only to cover their ass.

PLUS 1 Charlie D, GG

 

[DillDawg]

I've been reading the manual and it says not to run radials. I know some guys are riding with them, and if they are a smoother better riding tire why doesnt the factory want us on them?

I would run radials if I could find a rear 15" - aside from a car tire.
I would either run two radials, or a radial rear / bias front which is fine.

What you don't want to do is run a radial front and bias rear. That combo can get grabby in turns - and you really dont want to be in a 70 MPH sweeper to discover this.

GG - what are you running out back?

 

[Green Ghost]

Agreed

I would run radials if I could find a rear 15" - aside from a car tire.
I would either run two radials, or a radial rear / bias front which is fine.

What you don't want to do is run a radial front and bias rear. That combo can get grabby in turns - and you really dont want to be in a 70 MPH sweeper to discover this.

GG - what are you running out back?

Yeah Tell Me About It, No handle to the bike at all. Rear is a Metz 880 200/70/15. I mean this thing will put you on your butt in a hurry too!!! Slides the front in a corner and then Jumps Up, Almost as if the tire had left the rim. I got this tire as a radial because of a 1800 C rear in a 200/60R/16. I've only got it on the bike now so I can move it around while polishing the other C wheels I have. I also posted a write up on this in another thread. Do Not Run This Combo. As before, Some people are fine with the raidal rear and bias front. I'll only run Bias and bias, Radial and radial. This was only a road test to see if everything I heard was true, and it is. DO NOT RUN A RADIAL FRONT with a BIAS REAR. GG

 

[meta355]

Thanks! When it's time to go tire shopping I'll switch both front and rear to radials.

 

[Roa75]

Ok I started this off and I will explain myself further. I am worried about the blow out possibility being worse with tube tires. I want to go tubeless for this reason. I have spoke wheels and know I can't go tubeless in there current condition. I want to be able to use a temporary patch plug kit in case of a flat miles from home. From what I know about tires, and thats not much, I see the bias tires having more flex so maybe better regular highway ride. While the radial are a little stiffer giving a better performance feel on curves. Is either better at the rapid blow out situation.

 

[coley]

My mistake. I have bias ply on both the front and rear. I should have posted, "bike runs much soother with the cast rims." Sorry about the confusion.

 

[Retro Rich]

Roa75, in a rapid blow out situation MHO is that neither type of tire is better than the other. If a tire blows at speed, just pray for the best. Tubeless are obviously easier to do a temporary repair on in a roadside situation to get you to your destination or back home. There are varying opinions out there on continuing to run on a plugged or patched MC tire. For me, it's different than a car tire running with plugs. On a scooter, you rely on balance to keep you upright and true and you have both a lot less touching the road at speed as well as only one other tire to basically maintain control with if one of them blows/fails at speed. In a cage, you'll have more tires to maintain control of the vehicle with and a larger wheelbase to balance with and recover from a blowout. If the patch/repair on a MC tire fails while riding, you're back in the same situation again with a blowout and hoping for the best.

I've been lucky thus far and not had to deal with a blowout at speed, hope I never have to deal with it either. If I ever puncture a tire on a scooter, it'll be temporarily repaired to get me home and replaced with new rubber every time.

 

[Green Ghost]

Agreed

Roa75, in a rapid blow out situation MHO is that neither type of tire is better than the other. If a tire blows at speed, just pray for the best. Tubeless are obviously easier to do a temporary repair on in a roadside situation to get you to your destination or back home. There are varying opinions out there on continuing to run on a plugged or patched MC tire. For me, it's different than a car tire running with plugs. On a scooter, you rely on balance to keep you upright and true and you have both a lot less touching the road at speed as well as only one other tire to basically maintain control with if one of them blows/fails at speed. In a cage, you'll have more tires to maintain control of the vehicle with and a larger wheelbase to balance with and recover from a blowout. If the patch/repair on a MC tire fails while riding, you're back in the same situation again with a blowout and hoping for the best.

I've been lucky thus far and not had to deal with a blowout at speed, hope I never have to deal with it either. If I ever puncture a tire on a scooter, it'll be temporarily repaired to get me home and replaced with new rubber every time.

PLUS 1 RETRO RICH GG

 

[woof359]

Im thinking the cast are about 1/3 the weight of chrome spoked rims, lighter means better milage and faster.fast is good, faster is better.

 

[Green Ghost]

Weight

Im thinking the cast are about 1/3 the weight of chrome spoked rims, lighter means better milage and faster.fast is good, faster is better.

A good point. But I don't really know. I will weight them and see. Feel about the same to me just picking them up. GG

 

[SilverVTX]

On the weight question, the owners manual for my 2005 1300S says the dry weight of the 1300S is 672 lbs and for the 1300R, 683 lbs. If the only difference between the models is the wheels, the cast wheels weight 11 lbs more that the spokes.

Would still go with the cast wheels.

 

[Green Ghost]

Weights

On the weight question, the owners manual for my 2005 1300S says the dry weight of the 1300S is 672 lbs and for the 1300R, 683 lbs. If the only difference between the models is the wheels, the cast wheels weight 11 lbs more that the spokes.

Would still go with the cast wheels.

Don't know about the S wheels yet. I'm not getting wet to weigh them.
BUT the C Model Wheels Weigh in at ( Front 23 lbs. Rear 21 lbs. ) Just bearings and seals, NO TIRES NO ROTORS. GG