That sounds like an issue where either the float is stuck (calling for more fuel), or the petcock has an issue (it is allowing too much fuel to flow). But somehow you are getting too much fuel.
Who's the Current VTX Carb Expert Here?
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I don't think the float is adjustable. It would have to be stuck in the lower than top position (not actually floating).
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i just took a look at the AllBalls rebuild kit that you used. Never knew they were involved with our carbs. I compared this kit with OEM carb parts on Partzilla. Two things I noticed: the gaskets don't seem to match very good; the float needles are pretty different.
I don't know of anyone using this AllBalls carb kit, so I can't speak to any more specifics/comparisons. Just looks pretty generic. I know it is REALLY cheaper than OEM individual parts and a high quality kit from Factory Pro. Just sayin'
If you still have the old float needle, give it a try just to see. The Partzilla float needle alone is only around $10 cheaper than the whole kit from AllBalls. I like the exact parts going back into my carb (except different jetting, needle, etc). Honda made some good parts that work together. Sometimes you just have to pony up for predictable results.
Working on carbs is fast becoming an "ancient art" and I have to say that fuel injection is really better. But my 06 VTX, carb'd and all, is here to stay.
Hang in there ---
I don't know of anyone using this AllBalls carb kit, so I can't speak to any more specifics/comparisons. Just looks pretty generic. I know it is REALLY cheaper than OEM individual parts and a high quality kit from Factory Pro. Just sayin'
If you still have the old float needle, give it a try just to see. The Partzilla float needle alone is only around $10 cheaper than the whole kit from AllBalls. I like the exact parts going back into my carb (except different jetting, needle, etc). Honda made some good parts that work together. Sometimes you just have to pony up for predictable results.
Working on carbs is fast becoming an "ancient art" and I have to say that fuel injection is really better. But my 06 VTX, carb'd and all, is here to stay.
Hang in there ---
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65 Posts
My OEM float needle was leaking, like the carb was overflowing and I was getting fuel in the bottom of the OEM air cleaner and it was leaking out. But I suppose you're right, it very well might be the float. I was going to tear into the bike again this weekend, and check the needle diagram again for tears, hard spots, etc. Maybe I'll just look around for an OEM rebuild kit. I really didn't want to spend $100 on a full rebuild kit, when I can't figure out what's actually wrong.i just took a look at the AllBalls rebuild kit that you used. Never knew they were involved with our carbs. I compared this kit with OEM carb parts on Partzilla. Two things I noticed: the gaskets don't seem to match very good; the float needles are pretty different.
I don't know of anyone using this AllBalls carb kit, so I can't speak to any more specifics/comparisons. Just looks pretty generic. I know it is REALLY cheaper than OEM individual parts and a high quality kit from Factory Pro. Just sayin'
If you still have the old float needle, give it a try just to see. The Partzilla float needle alone is only around $10 cheaper than the whole kit from AllBalls. I like the exact parts going back into my carb (except different jetting, needle, etc). Honda made some good parts that work together. Sometimes you just have to pony up for predictable results.
Working on carbs is fast becoming an "ancient art" and I have to say that fuel injection is really better. But my 06 VTX, carb'd and all, is here to stay.
Hang in there ---
I completely understand, having been down the road of needless expense over something that required a small adjustment ...
I was thinking that the allballs float needle seemed to attach differently to the float. If it were to hang lower, you wouldn't be getting the same level of fuel (less). Speeds up around 90+ would probably overwhelm a gravity feed system that was not filling up the bowl completely to begin with --- just a thought. My brainstorming these days is 50% of normal on a good day......
I was thinking that the allballs float needle seemed to attach differently to the float. If it were to hang lower, you wouldn't be getting the same level of fuel (less). Speeds up around 90+ would probably overwhelm a gravity feed system that was not filling up the bowl completely to begin with ---
just a thought. My brainstorming these days is 50% of normal on a good day......
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65 Posts
Alright everyone. I finally had a couple hours free and I took the airbox off and the top of the carb off again. The Diagram looks perfect. The tube it connects to has some wear marks on it, but nothing unusual. I'm attaching a photo or two.
I hate to replace a $100 part for nothing, but this does control needle position at cruise speed. Is there anything else in the carb, besides fuel flow, I should check while I'm here?
I'm going to buy a 5 gallon jug of gas and run it through the fuel line to watch, and even record (if possible) the fuel stream to try and rule out the supply.
Anything else I should check?
I hate to replace a $100 part for nothing, but this does control needle position at cruise speed. Is there anything else in the carb, besides fuel flow, I should check while I'm here?
I'm going to buy a 5 gallon jug of gas and run it through the fuel line to watch, and even record (if possible) the fuel stream to try and rule out the supply.
Anything else I should check?
Attachments
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No ones got any other ideas?
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Well, I do believe this SAGA is finally over. I'm not exactly sure what fixed it but for anyone who's watching the thread, I did the following.
I took the TPS off the carb and tested it. Initially, I wasn't getting any resistance change,so I removed it and tested the TPS itself on the bench. I still wasn't getting any change. I almost pulled the trigger on a new one, but decided to plug it back in and test at the ICM connection again. It started testing out fine. I tested it continuously for 15 minutes, open, closed throttle, everywhere in between. I don't know, maybe there was a lose connection when I started. Maybe that tiny little adapter to go from the TPS to the carb wasn't snug and it would spin. I don't know.
I removed the carb bowl again, and removed the needle under the float (the one that allows fuel to flow into the bowl). I did a fuel test both from the tank at the end of the rubber line for the carb, and through the float needle. Flow was okay.
I did take the All-Balls Racing needle out and inspect it. I didn't see anything wrong, but I did take a little sandpaper and run it over the rubber tip to make sure there wasn't a burr or anything else. I went put it back together and noticed the gasket was a little crushed on one edge. I played with it for a minute and the gasket seemed a little small. It's rubber, and it's brand new from the begining of this season, so I gently stretched it a few times along the long straight areas and got it to fit nicely in the carb bowl ridge.
Maybe when I put it back together last time, maybe the gasket wasn't perfectly in the ridge, and maybe under vacuum on the highway it was sucking air, causing my issue. I don't know. I'm guessing.
I also had someone hold the throttle open while running (approx 3k rpms) and I played with every single wire on the ICM and nothing changed.
Lastly, I looked at the ground (I know the 1800's have ground issues) and I took it off the engine/transmission case, sanded it bright again for good measure and buttoned it all back up.
Well, I took the bike down the road, expecting problems. There weren't any. I went down the highway, after about 5 minutes at 80/85, I hammered on it. I get her 110/115 indicated (almost wide open) for the better part of 5 miles and she ran fine. Sure, shes slow to pick up more speed after 100mph indicated, but that seems to be expected.
Just for shi*s and giggles, I put the Hard Krome exhaust back on, and ran the hell out of it again. No issues. All in all, I've done 400/500 miles in thee last 3 days (I drove 115 miles to beach for friend dough, haha). She seems to run great. She ain't a hot shot, but she runs really good, and she really comfortable and smooth under 95 indicated.
Anyway, I appreciate all the help and suggestions, and while I don't necessarily have root cause for this one, she seems to be better now.
Now it's time to ride, to catch up on the riding that I've lost in the past 3 months where is hasn't been running well!
Cheers everyone!
I took the TPS off the carb and tested it. Initially, I wasn't getting any resistance change,so I removed it and tested the TPS itself on the bench. I still wasn't getting any change. I almost pulled the trigger on a new one, but decided to plug it back in and test at the ICM connection again. It started testing out fine. I tested it continuously for 15 minutes, open, closed throttle, everywhere in between. I don't know, maybe there was a lose connection when I started. Maybe that tiny little adapter to go from the TPS to the carb wasn't snug and it would spin. I don't know.
I removed the carb bowl again, and removed the needle under the float (the one that allows fuel to flow into the bowl). I did a fuel test both from the tank at the end of the rubber line for the carb, and through the float needle. Flow was okay.
I did take the All-Balls Racing needle out and inspect it. I didn't see anything wrong, but I did take a little sandpaper and run it over the rubber tip to make sure there wasn't a burr or anything else. I went put it back together and noticed the gasket was a little crushed on one edge. I played with it for a minute and the gasket seemed a little small. It's rubber, and it's brand new from the begining of this season, so I gently stretched it a few times along the long straight areas and got it to fit nicely in the carb bowl ridge.
Maybe when I put it back together last time, maybe the gasket wasn't perfectly in the ridge, and maybe under vacuum on the highway it was sucking air, causing my issue. I don't know. I'm guessing.
I also had someone hold the throttle open while running (approx 3k rpms) and I played with every single wire on the ICM and nothing changed.
Lastly, I looked at the ground (I know the 1800's have ground issues) and I took it off the engine/transmission case, sanded it bright again for good measure and buttoned it all back up.
Well, I took the bike down the road, expecting problems. There weren't any. I went down the highway, after about 5 minutes at 80/85, I hammered on it. I get her 110/115 indicated (almost wide open) for the better part of 5 miles and she ran fine. Sure, shes slow to pick up more speed after 100mph indicated, but that seems to be expected.
Just for shi*s and giggles, I put the Hard Krome exhaust back on, and ran the hell out of it again. No issues. All in all, I've done 400/500 miles in thee last 3 days (I drove 115 miles to beach for friend dough, haha). She seems to run great. She ain't a hot shot, but she runs really good, and she really comfortable and smooth under 95 indicated.
Anyway, I appreciate all the help and suggestions, and while I don't necessarily have root cause for this one, she seems to be better now.
Now it's time to ride, to catch up on the riding that I've lost in the past 3 months where is hasn't been running well!
Cheers everyone!
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53 Posts
Is there a link or somewhere I could figure out after having my carburetor rebuilt and rejected it's puking gas out of the carburetor now I clean my gas tank it was particular rush they cleaned the football still puking gas?
If the pair removal mod was done incorrectly would it cause the back pressure gas puking problem?
Thank you
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53 Posts
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53 Posts
How sad I've been reading Charlie's posts. I did not realize he had left for the
Ride in the Cloud🌹🙏
Thank you
Ron McCartney
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53 Posts
Vinish
I'm putting the carburetor back together .
On the slide diaphragm and the pin in the carb slide tube?
Does it go before the spring and the twist lock that holds the PIN
Where does that little washer go?
It's the only extra part I have left?
I am sorry but I do not understand your questions. Can you try asking them again. In the hopes that a description/order of parts will help, I offer the following:
If your carb needle has multiple clip positions (aftermarket needle), then you put the clip on the desired needle position. A washer can be used (usually not necessary with an aftermarket needle) to achieve a half step in needle clip position.
If a washer is used, it slides onto the needle to rest against the clip (aftermarket needle) or against the blunt end of the needle (stock needle). Then the needle is inserted into the metal end of the slide. Then, the spring is placed over the tit on the yellow locking cap. Then the yellow locking cap is put in place while making sure that the spring goes around the blunt end of the needle and then the yellow locking cap is twisted slightly to lock it in place.
Since it is very hard to do the above, the more common way of assembly which achieves the same thing is to:
1) Place the yellow locking cap so the tit end is facing upward.
2) Put the spring onto the tit
3) Place the needle blunt end into the spring
4) Place any washer over the needle to rest against the clip/blunt end
5) Slide this entire assembly up into the metal end of the slide. This is not easy to do as this assembly wants to tilt and swivel. I put a small socket on the end of a nut driver (select socket to fit molded in nut on yellow locking cap). I then use this nut driver to lift the assembly into the hollow cylinder of the carb slide and get the needle to go through the desired hole in the center of the metal end of the slide. Then, push the yellow locking cap down and twist slightly to lock entire assembly into place.
I hope this helps. If not, please ask your questions again in a different manner in hopes I will better understand them.
If your carb needle has multiple clip positions (aftermarket needle), then you put the clip on the desired needle position. A washer can be used (usually not necessary with an aftermarket needle) to achieve a half step in needle clip position.
If a washer is used, it slides onto the needle to rest against the clip (aftermarket needle) or against the blunt end of the needle (stock needle). Then the needle is inserted into the metal end of the slide. Then, the spring is placed over the tit on the yellow locking cap. Then the yellow locking cap is put in place while making sure that the spring goes around the blunt end of the needle and then the yellow locking cap is twisted slightly to lock it in place.
Since it is very hard to do the above, the more common way of assembly which achieves the same thing is to:
1) Place the yellow locking cap so the tit end is facing upward.
2) Put the spring onto the tit
3) Place the needle blunt end into the spring
4) Place any washer over the needle to rest against the clip/blunt end
5) Slide this entire assembly up into the metal end of the slide. This is not easy to do as this assembly wants to tilt and swivel. I put a small socket on the end of a nut driver (select socket to fit molded in nut on yellow locking cap). I then use this nut driver to lift the assembly into the hollow cylinder of the carb slide and get the needle to go through the desired hole in the center of the metal end of the slide. Then, push the yellow locking cap down and twist slightly to lock entire assembly into place.
I hope this helps. If not, please ask your questions again in a different manner in hopes I will better understand them.
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53 Posts
It helps a lot.
It appears the guy that worked on the carb mixed up parts between the two carburetors a 50 state and a 49 state.
I have since desmogged the bike running the 49 State carburetor.
My pin is a aftermarket with a C clip & washer.
I'm running a stock air box with a KN filter.
What notch on the aftermarket pin should I put the C-clip?
I've got a long spring for the vacuum diaphragm and a short spring that's been modified.
Can I run the long spring with the aftermarket pin?
I apologize for my terminology it's been 30 years since I did a Holley
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