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I have a 2005 1300c. My bike will not stay statred without my choke being at least part of the way out. After it has be warmed up if I bush it all the way in the bike dies. Does anyone else have this problem or know what could be causing it. Last year I did the Clayton mod and was told I would not have to jet my carb. Should I have jetted them? Thank you for any help you can give!!!!
 

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I have same issue. I think its due to a clogged low speed jet. I will have more info after this weekend.

Look on here for a link to the owners manual it shows you exactly how to get carb off and clean the Bowl and jets.

just ask one of the moderators they are awesome and full of knowledge.
 

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Reeling Jackwagon
2003 1300S
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Little knob under the air cleaner will increase your idle speed. Excessive choke will foul the plugs so they may be a bit of the problem. Link to the service manual is in my signature line.

just ask one of the moderators they are awesome and full of knowledge.
Moderators keep the board running smoothly and they are awesome and full of knowledge, but you shouldn't bother them with problems about your bike. They probably have enough to do already. Just post your question in the appropriate forum and any member or moderator will be glad to help.
 

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Save your self some time. Just buy 4 new pulgs and adjust Air Fuel Screw 2.5 turns out from soft seated position. I have a Glen's A/F adjuster toll if you need to borrow it. I can mail it out. Plus go to you tube and check out SCAR mod and watch video.

Voice of experience on this issue. It happened to me.:patriot:

I have same issue. I think its due to a clogged low speed jet. I will have more info after this weekend.

Look on here for a link to the owners manual it shows you exactly how to get carb off and clean the Bowl and jets.

just ask one of the moderators they are awesome and full of knowledge.
I would give you the same advice, before you tear into the carb. If you do take it apart get a perminant Air Fuel Mixture tool from Glen's vtx garage. It will save you in the long run.
 

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mz25

1 Read this.
I don’t know why but it seems that a lot of bikes run fine when
new but after a couple years they seem to start having trouble.
Ok some may be able to get away with using the choke but that
may have to do with when the set the carb during assembly.
However most of the time when someone is having trouble
starting their bikes it is usually due to using the
choke/enhancer and fouling the plugs. The choke in these bikes
isn't like the old fashion butterfly you are use to on older
types engines. The choke/enhancer actually dumps a whole lot of
gas directly into the cylinder and fouling the plugs. This is
all caused by the manufacture setting the A/F lean (1 5/8)
turns open to be able to pass EPA standards. If you set the A/f
at 2.5 turns open - most of the time you will not even need to
use the choke even when it is cold out.
Hers a link;
Glen's VTX Garage
http://www.glensvtxgarage.com/
I'd order the permanent a/f
Donut:patriot:Doug
 

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I agree with everyone to replace your plugs as their probably shot by now, then adjust your A/F screw to 2-1/2 turns out (or a 1/2 turn out from where it is now)
These bikes are cold blooded so when it's cold the idle will be lower than once it's warmed up, so you'll have to find a happy medium between the two. But to get you going from this point, once you get it set up give the throttle 2 or 3 twists and fire it up and while feathering the throttle adjust your idle until it will stay running without ever touching the choke. With fresh plugs and the A/F set right you should never need to touch the choke again (be sure it's pushed all the way in also, it's common for them to be out a 1/16" and cause issues)

Once you get it to this point and it's running great, take it for a 10 mile ride to get it up to temp and then adjust the idle back down to a good level. Then enjoy it...


 

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I know this might not be the place for this as it is not an urgent problem but the topic is close to my problem and a search did not find any thread with my exact problem. I have been away since December and today was the first day I could get the bike out this year. It started after two attempts with a little choke and then idled fine for several minuites. When I pulled the clutch in and shifted into first it died before I had the chance to even give it any throttle or release the clutch. I had about 50 miles on a new oil change and the fuel was treated last winter before storing so it should not be that. If you can point me in the right direction to a post or offer an help I would greatly appreciate it.

Phil

:banghead:
 

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I know this might not be the place for this as it is not an urgent problem but the topic is close to my problem and a search did not find any thread with my exact problem. I have been away since December and today was the first day I could get the bike out this year. It started after two attempts with a little choke and then idled fine for several minuites. When I pulled the clutch in and shifted into first it died before I had the chance to even give it any throttle or release the clutch. I had about 50 miles on a new oil change and the fuel was treated last winter before storing so it should not be that. If you can point me in the right direction to a post or offer an help I would greatly appreciate it.

Phil

:banghead:
My guess would be the kick stand was still down, it has a safety switch attached that kills the engine when it's down and you put it in gear.
 

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My guess would be the kick stand was still down, it has a safety switch attached that kills the engine when it's down and you put it in gear.
I agree it will not run with the kickstand down and in gear.
It's a good safety feature.

Donut:patriot:Doug
 

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Yes, it's a great safety feature and it also does a good job of making a grown man look like a complete idiot! Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna go hide in my room for a while...:eek::eek::eek:
 

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:Dlol don't feel it has happen to most here but they wont admit it. I've done it more than once.

Donut :patriot:
 
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