[5.elements]

So, I keep seeing a large number of posts about the "death wobble". Having working with several other bikes, the bearings are not always the reason for the issue. I just wanted to throw in my experience on the matter to give other troubleshooting to people in case the bearings don't fix the issue.

The death wobble is caused by one thing: the wheels not being perfectly aligned with each other both vertically and horizontally. You have two gyro's with the wheels. The larger is it is even slightly off from the smaller, it will always win. So, since the rear tire/wheel is larger, heavier than the front, and is much more ridgid (being mounted to the swing arm which in turn is mounted to the frame it has no horizontal movement) it will always win the fight to go where it wants to go, hence the front wobbiling.

So, if there is anything causing the two to be out of alignment it will cause the wobble. Here are a few things I have seen and known to cause this:

- rear bushings being out will cause the wheel to move at a slightly different angle.
- the rear shocks not having even amount of preload will could cause a slight torque of the rear end.
- forks being out of alignment: the top and bottom of the tripple tree being slightly off. I am not sure if the forks in our bikes are able to have this but any info would be good.
- (on chain bikes) alignment from adjusting the chain
- Wheels not being true
- Steering bearings allowing the forks to not hold the frontend straight.
- Bent frame
- Flat spotted or bulging tires can also cause something similar but it is more of a vibration than a wobble...


And any other items that could cause the wheels to be even slightly off from each other. Less than half of a degree of angle off could cause it.

A couple of notes:
- Tire pressure can cause the issue to become more apparent.
- It can cause a tank slapper... If you want to find out what that is search for videos on youtube.
- The "death wobble"... Not really unsafe unless it escalates to a death wobble.
- It can cause uneven wear on the tires (mainly the front) usually cupping of the tire. The tread will not feel even. (Thats the best way I can put it)


If anything here is incorrect or you have anything to add let me know. I am thinking about setting up a wiki to put info like this since the stickys can only hold so much.

 

[rs42sport]

no the bearings are the issue... its like a ticking time bomb its more like when they go than if... my bike had 8000 miles and had the wobble took the bearing out and it looked like it had 50000 miles on it...

 

[eagleinthewind]

The big issue with the steering bearings is with the 1300 and Honda evidently realized it since the 1300 has ball bearing like a bicycle and the 1800 has roller bearings. I replaced mine at 8,000 miles and just like rs42sport they were shot. At the same time I do agree that the other things mentioned can cause the wobble but the bearings are a known issue not just a "maybe"

 

[trkrJeff]

yeah, What those guys said, Search Death wobble, theirs multiple threads on this topic, the 1300's came with cheap bearings from factory. It's not just a huge coincidence that all the 1300's happen to have bad steering bearings. mine does it from 40-50 mph on decel only. I know it's bad, so i'm just going to replace them before their close to worn out, and before I have a problem because of it.

 

[Charlie D]

swing arm bearings will cause it too.

But like said above 90% of the wobble is the cheep ball bearings used in a heavy cruiser application.

 

[5.elements]

I know the wobble is usually the bearings allowing the wheel to move out of alignment... but there can be other causes as well and this was to help those who have already replaced the bearings and are having issues.

 

[Zrex1]

Bent frames and wheels not plumb cause a weave more than a wobble..If it ever happens to you, you will know the difference.

 

[06vtx1300]

from what i'm reading i think i should replace my steering bearings i got an 06 1300 with 1900 miles..but i haven't had any wobbling problems with it yet

 

[Charlie D]

from what i'm reading i think i should replace my steering bearings i got an 06 1300 with 1900 miles..but i haven't had any wobbling problems with it yet

you will get there might read up on the replacement and get the parts then when the ride season is over get to work on it.

Maine thing now is make sure to inflate the tires to 38-40 front and 40 rear.

 

[06vtx1300]

ok thanks and sorry i ment 19k miles on mine..but i'll definatluy look into it

 

[5.elements]

Bent frames and wheels not plumb cause a weave more than a wobble..If it ever happens to you, you will know the difference.

I did have a bent frame on my first bike... it wobbled and cupped the tires.

 

[Sixgun]

I had the bearings replaced on my '05 S at 16,000 miles. Within a two weeks I had new tires with inflation being 38F/40R. I still have the wobble, but at a lesser degree, but it is there and will always be there. The old bearings do look cheap, but they looked fine when they came out.

Seems that some bikes react more favorably than others with the changing of the bearings. Wish I could remember if my old bikes did the same thing to the same degree.

 

[eagleinthewind]

Have to ask, did you have a stealer replace the bearings?? If so and you didn't specify the roller bearings used in the 1800 I bet they only tightened or replaced with the same ball bearings. Also try 40 in the front and have you replaced the shock bushings; if not with 20,000 they are totally shot and will cause wobble.

 

[Sixgun]

Not sure to whom you are posing your question, but I'll answer. I did have the Stealer replace with the All Balls everyone uses. I have not replaced the rear shock bushings.

 

[On The Road Again!]

How would i adjust my rear shocks to ensure they're both even??
I've never adjusted them myself yet, but I'm planning on softening them before Sturgis for sure.
I have over 35k on the bike and have always had a slight wobble. I had the dealership stiffen my shocks a little but it was too much.

 

[eagleinthewind]

Not sure to whom you are posing your question, but I'll answer. I did have the Stealer replace with the All Balls everyone uses. I have not replaced the rear shock bushings.

Yes, was asking you. Check your rear shock mounts and I bet you can see the rubber bushing is bulging in places, when you remove them probably you will find they are even split. Most replace them with nylon

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6389k344/=d27d62

Also a thread on bushings at http://www.vtxcafe.com/showthread.php?t=61178&highlight=nylon+shock+bushings

Ask me or anyone that has installed them for tips before installation; very easy once you get some guidance. Took me less than an hour and wow what a difference in the ride, especially cornering.

Look at your shocks from the rear and you should see numbers one-five and an arrow pointing to the number of those that you are currently on. May be a spanner tool in your tool kit as some years did have them, if so connect each end into one of the holes around the shock and turn to your desired number; lower the number softer the shock, be careful if you ride a passenger a lot as most find 1 or 2 numbers will cause bottoming out. If no spanner, jack bike up to take weight off shocks and you can probably turn with your hand, I personally use a rubber lock strap like used in the kitchen to open stuck jars. You may even be able to turn them with out jacking up.

 

[On The Road Again!]

Awesome, thanks!
I have a wrench in my tool kit (thankfully), and a mc jack. I can see they are both on the same setting, so I think 3 will be good for fully loaded and passenger.

 

[Sixgun]

Eagle, thanks for the information. Do I only have to replace the top bushing or must the bottom be done as well? Is there a bottom bushing? Does the shock have to be removed from the bike in order to change the bushing? Don't the McMaster bushings require pressing them in because they aren't tapered like the stock bushings?

 

[eagleinthewind]

You need to do top and bottom and yes the shock comes off. The bushings are a little difficult to get into the shock as they are tight; best way I found is a vise with a 2x2or 2x4 on one side protecting the shock and one on the other against the bushing. As to putting them back on the bike once pressed in the shock, sometimes you can use the SHORTER (very important cause if you use the longer you may twist it off in the hole when it bottoms out) of the two shock bolts to pull the shock on then replace one with the longer, i think the longer is top but not certain so be sure to notice on disassembly; another way is to use a drill bit that will barely slide in the bushing and very lightly hone the bushing out. No, it will not hurt the bushing function if you just do a very small amount at a time until you can force them on using either the bolt way or a 2x4 and a rubber malet to tap the shock mounting area. The nylon is hard not like the rubber so a thousandth of an inch or two will not affect the function. Sounds like a little work but if you follow the above, have the tools ready, then I would say an hour maybe.

 

[challenger71340]

Does anyone have a rough estimate of what a dealership charges to have the steer ing bearing replaced on a 1300? I think putting in the All Balls Bearing at home is above my technical expertise. I hate to think how much I am going to get raked over the coals for this - ha ha