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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
just picked up a 02vtx1800 c with some mods. ported and polished new pistons and a power commander III.
bike sat for a wile (about 6mos to a year) cranks and runs well on the topside but will not idle. has black smoke and sometimes fire coming out of the exhaust mostly on the rear bank of the engine. wasn"t firing on the rear bank when i got it but some new plugs corrected that as the pipes now get hot on that cylinder and weren"t before. not sure how to set the power commander or to even see what it is set at i know its burning an awful lot of fuel as i added 1 gallon and rode around 3-4 miles and the fuel light came back on. any suggestions??
 

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Hi, first check your oil, the gas as to go somewhere and there is a good chance it's in the oil (drain oil ) and change filter. My 1800 was running bad on idle, I changed the gas filter it was bad and now runs much better. It might be a good idea to change the air filter and gas filter, start with does two and see what happens.
 

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Tinkerer
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Do a search here on the forums for fuel pressure regulator.
 
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Hi, first check your oil, the gas as to go somewhere and there is a good chance it's in the oil (drain oil ) and change filter. My 1800 was running bad on idle, I changed the gas filter it was bad and now runs much better. It might be a good idea to change the air filter and gas filter, start with does two and see what happens.
Take a step back and if the fuel pressure regulator hasn't been changed, change it immediately! The little diaphragm in it cracks due to AGE, not abuse or overuse, it will cost you around $40, and you will need to drain twice the oil, and change once, the oil filter to purge contaminated oil. The early 1800's are more and more frequently having this problem until it is changed. 1 & done. After this you can think about playing with your fuel manager settings & maps.
 

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Fpr definitely bad oil is severely contaminated. Waiting for new parts and will let you guys know how she comes out
Remember to remove the black plastic o-ring cover on the backside when installing. 2 small bolts hold it on, the front is easy, the rear is a real P.I.A. w/o a u-joint or wobble sockets.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
After 35 years of turning wrenches on cars I’m sure I have just the right tools for the job @PaXman11 thanks for the hints though they are much appreciated as I haven’t spen a lot of time working on bikes
 

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@PaXman11 you think it will be ok to switch her up to Mobil one oil??
Thats what I've been using for years, the 4T Racing MC oil, 10W40. For the first change, to rid the motor of fuel contaminants, you can use a cheap oil just to get it warm by running around the block then change it to the good stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well guys she runs great now the fpr fixed all of the issues. changed plugs and oil and filter. runs like a new bike. i did use the factory honda oil and filter. im going to switch her to mobil one next oil change. any suggestion on some good clutches for this particular bike?
 

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well guys she runs great now the fpr fixed all of the issues. changed plugs and oil and filter. runs like a new bike. i did use the factory honda oil and filter. im going to switch her to mobil one next oil change. any suggestion on some good clutches for this particular bike?
Some have had success just changing the stock clutch springs to better ones. Another Honda weak point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It seems like you have to release the clutch almost all the way before it starts to engage
 

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The Dude That Rides
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It seems like you have to release the clutch almost all the way before it starts to engage
Replaced the clutch fluid while you are at it. When was it done last? Every two years is a good idea, just like the brake fluid, since it IS brake fluid lol.
 
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