It's most likely from your exhaust gaskets needing replaced esp. if someone before you installed aftermarket exhausts. New ones properly installed and torque'd to 17 ft./ lbs. then run for 100 mi., and re-torqued should seat properly and stop the fresh air from getting pulled into the pipes past the gaskets.

 

In addition to the excellent suggestion from PaXman11, you should also consider doing the pair valve mod using dimpled block off plates (search the Cafe for more info on this) and rejetting the carb to reduce the decel popping, reduce the decel gurgling, improve fuel mileage, make it easier to start cold, increase power, etc.

 

I have read a ton of posts here and now I am convinced that my bike is running lean. I need to locate the A/F mixture screw to make the necessary adjustments. My problem is that I don't know where this screw is. Does anybody have a clear picture showing where this screw is? I have seen a few pictures, but all of them are confusing. My bike has the spike air filter and the entire carburetor is visible. Can I access it directly from there or should I have to remove the entire carb to make an adjustment? Since it looks like a D screw, what tool can I use to adjust it?

 

Can someone please tell me if I can use tubeless Shinko 777 tire on the front of my bike? Also, what kind of inner tube should I use?

 

A/F is the pilot screw.Service Manual link in my signature...

 

Thanks a lot. The service manual will come in very handy for many maintenance tasks I am planning on doing immediately.

 

What inner tubes can I buy for the front tire? I found some dry rot there on the original D404 Dunlop tire. It's not too bad. However, I won't take a chance with such a big bike.
The rear tire was changed fairly recently. It still has the nubs on.

 

Whatever size rim your front tire is get the inner tube for. The tubes don't go by the height and width of the tire, just the rim size.

 

I found a hole at the end of the Cobra pipes. Can this cause the popping?

 

I am not an expert but I do not think this would cause popping.

 

I too didn't think so. I guess I will need to clean the carb as it's most likely the cause of the popping. When the choke is on, it runs like a dream. This tells me it's a lean condition that's causing the popping.
I will start by a seafoam treatment. If nothing improves, then my winter project is to remove the carb and clean it thoroughly. Maybe even rejet it.

 

You should also check the tightness of the seal where the pipes enter the exhaust ports. Since you have aftermarket pipes, another thing to check is whether the nuts on the exhaust ports studs are the OEM domed chrome nuts. If they are, then it is common with aftermarket pipes for the flange to be thinner which causes these nuts to bottom out on the studs before then can exert sufficient force on the exhaust port gaskets to achieve a good seal. To overcome this, put a couple of stainless steel washers under each nut.

 

I think I found out why my bike is running like crap at times. I took a closer look at the carb and found out it's not seated all the way on the rear cylinder. This is that cause of the hesitation and popping sounds i complained about.
I am including pictures of the carb and how it sits on the front and rear manifolds. Please let me if this is normal. If not, what should I do about this issue.

Thanks,

 

Sorry but I cannot tell much of anything from your pictures. The carb fits into a rubber manifold and the manifold is tightened around the carb with a fancy hose clamp type device. The manifold then splits into two parts and each part attaches to a separate intake on one of the cylinders. These also are held on with a fancy hose clamp type device. At all of these three locations, the rubber should be well onto the metal tube and the hose clamp device tight.

 

I did not see any clamps securing the rubber manifold and the carb. Can someone please provide me with a clear picture showing how the carb is secured to the rubber manifold?

Thanks!

 

I could be wrong but I thought there was a hoseclamp screw type device securing the carb to the rubber manifold. You tighten this with a wrench or screwdriver. Someone with a VTX1300 handy, please confirm or refute my recollection please.

 

@Vinish is correct. There should be a hose clamp that uses a Philips screw to tighten the carb to the hose. Someone may have removed it and forgot to put it back on.

The Carb to manifold clamp is #9, the Clamps for Manifold to Cylinder Heads are #10 (x2)


Click here to order the parts:
2009 Honda VTX1300R A FRONT CYLINDER HEAD / INTAKE MANIFOLD | Ron Ayers

 

I think it's time to just bite the bullet and take the carb off and clean it. I may have to adjust the A/F screw or buy the long one that allows this to be done easily without taking off anything.
Talking about carbs, who's the idiot at Honda that decided the vtx 1300 should have a carb? Fuel injection is so much better and easier than these carbs. I can't believe they made such a poor decision just to save a few bucks on the vtx 1300.

 

Have you just simply taken off the bowl and cleaned the jets sometimes that's all it needs and check for cracks in the diaphragm "pilot vacuum". And don't forget the spark plugs if their dirty they sometimes cause a backfire.