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What is the easiest way to change the coolant?

17K views 21 replies 15 participants last post by  Burner84  
#1 ·
What is the easiest way to change the coolant on my 05 1300 R?
 
#2 ·
Follow what the manual says for changing coolant. I just changed mine and another bikes. The whole process only takes about 20 minutes. You'll have to remove the tank so you can fill the main system through the inlet. Watch out when you take the drain plug out. Nothing will come out until you crack the system open at the pressure cap. Once you do this, you'll have fluid shooting out towards you. I just put a catch container on the ground below the area and then hold something to deflect the fluid down in to the container. With your other hand, crack the pressure cap open slightly to allow fluid to come out. You'll have to vary the amount the cap is off. Open it up more as the fluid level gets lower so it flows out.
 
#6 ·
Changed mine 2 years ago and last month so I could remove the carb. I just loosened up/slid back the lower radiator hose and let it all drain into a container. Got maybe a pint on the floor but it was over fast. I use a maintenance stand so its easy to get at and that lower hose seems to be just a low as the over flow container. I did take it off, drain it, wash it inside and out, refilled, reinstalled. Just make sure you don't leave any air pockets in the system.................tom
 
#7 ·
Really isn't that bad.

Your supposed to replace the washer on the coolant drain just like the oil washer, I reused mine no leaks so not worried about it.

Hardest part is draining out the stupid overflow container but that isn't bad either.
 
#8 ·
Looks/sounds more of a pain in the ass than it really is. If you don't have a jack and/or stand it is a little more difficult only because you have lay on the ground to get to the overflow tank. :icon_sad: However, since there is so little fluid in the overflow, if you have changed it on a regular basis, you can probably not even worry about what is in there. BUT! (there's always one of those in there) If you have not done so and it is discolored, I'd make the extra effort to remove the tank, drain and clean it. That's just me trying to keep my brain from melting from my OCD if I didn't. :tapfoot: Takes anywhere from 30 minutes to an hour depending on what equipment you have and how familiar you are. It is NOT a hard job and you should not defer to the dealer to have it done. Save that money for more accessories. :mosh: The write up posted above is a very good help.
 
#11 ·
If I understand other posts on here correctly, it isn't actually necessary to remove the fuel tank. Apparently others have used a prop rod to raise the tank enough to access the filler cap without actually disconnecting the tank. That seems like it would make the process easier, can anyone vouch for the idea? I need to change my coolant and would like to do it this way if possible.
 
#14 ·
Of course, Jeff is correct. Just follow J-Stars write-up to make sure you get everything correct. After you do it correctly (by the book) the first time, then modify it to suit. Even after 2 years my antifreeze looked perfectly clean, the overflow was still clean as well. I haven't put the mileage on the last 2 years as I did the first 2. Lots of factors. But right out of the gate, go by the book first. Really not that much more time involved. In both cases, mine was on the (Goheen) maintenance stand with the tank off: (1) drained so I could change the fan sensor, (2) drained so I could take the carb off for a good clean. I just don't want to imply/teach any bad habits. Lately, I've gotten myself in enough trouble as it is......................................tom
 
#18 ·
Had to look at www.ronayers.com but the bolts (2) are 6X12 mm and the (1) washer is 6.5mm. Saw the bolts in the service manual but could not find anything on what size the washer is. Torque on the bolts is listed as 10 ftlbs.
 
#21 ·
I changed my coolant last night, basically following the book procedure. I tried it without actually removing the tank (because I have LEDs installed under the tank), but couldn't reach the cap well enough to put coolant in. The tank pivots forward on its mounts if you remove the bolt and disconnect the gas line and vacuum hose from the petcock assembly and the breather hose from the right side, but can only tilt forward so far before the instrument assembly touches the fork. So, I proceeded to disconnect the wires under the right front of the tank beneath the right forward cylinder head shroud, and removed the tank. I didn't actually take it all the way off the bike, but rested it over the battery area, with rolled and bunched towels underneath it. This was stable enough for a short period, although I didn't feel very secure about it. Next time I'll probably disconnect the lights as well and remove the tank entirely.

Not a terribly difficult procedure (at least it wouldn't be if I didn't have the lights installed), but I still wish they would make the filler cap accessible.