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A Story About A Water Pump and Honda Dealer

2.7K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  simpleman44  
#1 ·
So I know some of you have read my posts about my bike and how it hasnt been running right (and my quest to fix it). Well the last night around 11 or so I decided I would try a few of the recommendations from the guys here on the forum. I installed my paired valve block off plates which was easy enough which was easy enough. After that I added a shim to the carb and adjusted the AF.

The Water Pump
While I was doing this I noticed some moisture around the two coolant lines on the carb. I pulled the lines off and clipped the ends off to get a fresh connection. When I did this noticed orange chunks in the coolant. I never saw before. So I decided to flush the system.

The flush went pretty well and I think I got all the corrosion gunk out. I think the water wetter I added may have clean up the system and dislodged alot stuff. The problem arose when I went to reassemble. I guess I torqued the drain plug down to much (more on that later), and I sheared it off...

I tried removed the water pump (and spilled oil everywhere because I wasnt thinking from lack of sleep) to try and get the bolt out. I tried filing a flat head in the bit above the surface. That didnt work, and after the horror stories I heard about extractors I didnt want to try that.

The Honda Dealer
So I went to the Honda Dealer (after calling in sick and sleeping all day). This is the first time I have ever been to a Dealer but it helped to see another VTX 1300S pulling out as I walked in. They quoted me $25-$100 to remove the bolt and helicoil if needed.

He told me although they could remove the bolt he would feel better about replacing it because of my mileage vs the difference in price. The water pump retails for $191 dollars and the cheap cycle parts websites sell them for about $140+ shipping which is 5-10 days.

The dealer mechanic told me "Im not supposed to do this but...." and quoted me $150 to have it delivered by friday. He said it would be better to spend the extra $50 and get a new pump. Not only was his price lower and faster than anywhere else but he recomended I get an extractor kit and try it myself since I couldnt do any harm if I was going to replace it anyways. I was really impressed. For one he really cut me a deal for no reason and he kept my best interest in mind even though it meant I might not buy from him.

The Fix
So I got the extractor kit and broke every bit within the hour....

I remembered Woody on here talking about having great results with extractors so I gave him a call. Turns out I had been doing it wrong the whole time. He gave me quick lesson on how to use them and I had it out in about 15 minutes! Apparently I torque bolts down a bit much... Im realizing the whole more is better thing doesnt apply to this bike in many ways... In an attempt to make sure the bolt stays tight I created a full days worth of work.

Thank you Woody for answering at such a late hour and helping me. If it wasnt for your help I would be having to order a new water pump tomorrow.

Back To The Present
So now its 3:30AM and the bike is mostly back together.

I just gotta tighten a few bolts (gently) fill the oil back up. Fill up the cooling system and burp it.

Im curious to see how the shim, coolant flush, and paired valve block off help my previous issues.

Here are some pics of the days events...


Flushing the Cooling System
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Trying to Extract Before Woodys Help
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Trying to Extract After Woodys Help
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I Missed a Day of Work and Spent the Whole Day (and night) on This...
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#2 ·
My worst fears in this post. Anytime I work on the bike I do it with trepidation. I know nothing about working on the bike. Everything I know I have done for the first time and with instructions from the forums I frequent.

So far I have not damaged anything. ( I don't think )

Congrats on you successful project and your persistence.

My 1800 doesn't seem to be running just right so about to endeavor on checking out some potential causes that I have picked up reading on the Cafe. Hoping for the best ....
 
#3 ·
My worst fears in this post. Anytime I work on the bike I do it with trepidation. I know nothing about working on the bike. Everything I know I have done for the first time and with instructions from the forums I frequent.

So far I have not damaged anything. ( I don't think )

Congrats on you successful project and your persistence.

My 1800 doesn't seem to be running just right so about to endeavor on checking out some potential causes that I have picked up reading on the Cafe. Hoping for the best ....
This is my first bike, and Im not a mechanic or anything. I always freak out before I do anything too. But with a manual and the forum I think you can do just about anything pretty easily.

Most of the issues that occured when I was working on the bike was from two things cutting corners and rushing. Dont do that and its all easy. None of this wouldve happened if I hadnt been rushing to finish before work and used a torque wrench instead of the hulk maneuver.
 
#4 ·
Can you tell us what you were doing wrong on the broken bolt/screw extraction and what Woody told you was the correct way to do it? This might help prevent others from having the same problem as you. Thanks.

G'day,

Vinish
 
#5 ·
The kit included drill bits that were reverse threaded to drill in counter clockwise. But they didnt work, they kept snapping. And when I tried to use the extractor I used it in the drill.

Woody said regular drill bits were fine to drill the pilot hole, and to go slow letting the drill work. He also recommended some penetrating oil on the stud so it wouldnt get as hot. Going slow actually made it drill in faster. I had a pilot hole in no time.

Then Woody said not to use the drill with the extractor. He said lightly tap it into the pilot hole then use a wrench or T handle to slowly back it out. I really cant give his directions justice. But needless to say it worked very well and was very fast.
 
#6 ·
About the orange gunk in the coolant; apparently, somone added long life coolant (orange) to the stock coolant (green) that isn't long life. These two types of coolant are not compatible and turn into gel when mixed. Flush the system well.
 
#7 ·
That's good to know. I was wondering what it was.

I got it all back together now and running. I just can't keep the lower return hose from leaking where it enters the water pump. The o ring looks fine and it I unscrew it and hold it at a certain angle it doesn't leak. But when I tighten it the angle changes.

I'm thoroughly frustrated. :banghead:
 
#8 ·
Hey man, glad I could help with at least one of the problems. Glad it saved you some money too. As far as my instructions, you got them just about right, just a little shorter version than I gave you.

@Vinish...... Just what Justin said, use a regular drill bit, for a pilot hole, that is big enough to get the tapered extractor in, but not too big where it won't allow the extractor to bite into the metal. Drill slowly and use cutting oil or WD40, and let the drill and bit do the work. Make the hole at least 1/4 to 3/8 deep. Tap the extractor gently with a hammer 4 or 5 times, just to seat it, and use an adjustable wrench, if you don't have a tap handle, and gently tug at it until you feel it start to back out. You will feel a springy type feeling like the extractor is going to break, but keep a gentle force on it and it should soon back out. Hope this explains it.
 
#9 ·
Hey man, glad I could help with at least one of the problems. Glad it saved you some money too. As far as my instructions, you got them just about right, just a little shorter version than I gave you.

@Vinish...... Just what Justin said, use a regular drill bit, for a pilot hole, that is big enough to get the tapered extractor in, but not too big where it won't allow the extractor to bite into the metal. Drill slowly and use cutting oil or WD40, and let the drill and bit do the work. Make the hole at least 1/4 to 3/8 deep. Tap the extractor gently with a hammer 4 or 5 times, just to seat it, and use an adjustable wrench, if you don't have a tap handle, and gently tug at it until you feel it start to back out. You will feel a springy type feeling like the extractor is going to break, but keep a gentle force on it and it should soon back out. Hope this explains it.
Perfect explanation. Thanks.
 
#15 ·
If you're talking about a pipe with an o-ring installed in a groove on that pipe- then the pipe slides into a round hole: If you've tweaked that pipe at all it will never be straight when inserted in it's hole and tightened down.

That pipe has to sit in there perfectly straight to get the oring to seal- You could try a thicker -slightly thicker o-ring of the same diameter- lube it with silicone so it slides in easy and see if that works. No o-ring should have to go through any heating/ cooling cycle to seal- they should seal up immediately or there is a problemm. Wrong o-ring, distorted part, etc....

Sorry Charlie, didn't read your post thoroughly. You're right if the old oring is being used it may be like that- I thought for sure he had a new o-ring. Sounds like the pipe is tweaked since it leaks when tightened down. But maybe he is using an old o-ring and needs a new one.