My worst fears in this post. Anytime I work on the bike I do it with trepidation. I know nothing about working on the bike. Everything I know I have done for the first time and with instructions from the forums I frequent.

So far I have not damaged anything. ( I don't think )

Congrats on you successful project and your persistence.

My 1800 doesn't seem to be running just right so about to endeavor on checking out some potential causes that I have picked up reading on the Cafe. Hoping for the best ....

 

My worst fears in this post. Anytime I work on the bike I do it with trepidation. I know nothing about working on the bike. Everything I know I have done for the first time and with instructions from the forums I frequent.

So far I have not damaged anything. ( I don't think )

Congrats on you successful project and your persistence.

My 1800 doesn't seem to be running just right so about to endeavor on checking out some potential causes that I have picked up reading on the Cafe. Hoping for the best ....

This is my first bike, and Im not a mechanic or anything. I always freak out before I do anything too. But with a manual and the forum I think you can do just about anything pretty easily.

Most of the issues that occured when I was working on the bike was from two things cutting corners and rushing. Dont do that and its all easy. None of this wouldve happened if I hadnt been rushing to finish before work and used a torque wrench instead of the hulk maneuver.

 

Can you tell us what you were doing wrong on the broken bolt/screw extraction and what Woody told you was the correct way to do it? This might help prevent others from having the same problem as you. Thanks.

G'day,

Vinish

 

The kit included drill bits that were reverse threaded to drill in counter clockwise. But they didnt work, they kept snapping. And when I tried to use the extractor I used it in the drill.

Woody said regular drill bits were fine to drill the pilot hole, and to go slow letting the drill work. He also recommended some penetrating oil on the stud so it wouldnt get as hot. Going slow actually made it drill in faster. I had a pilot hole in no time.

Then Woody said not to use the drill with the extractor. He said lightly tap it into the pilot hole then use a wrench or T handle to slowly back it out. I really cant give his directions justice. But needless to say it worked very well and was very fast.

 

About the orange gunk in the coolant; apparently, somone added long life coolant (orange) to the stock coolant (green) that isn't long life. These two types of coolant are not compatible and turn into gel when mixed. Flush the system well.

 

That's good to know. I was wondering what it was.

I got it all back together now and running. I just can't keep the lower return hose from leaking where it enters the water pump. The o ring looks fine and it I unscrew it and hold it at a certain angle it doesn't leak. But when I tighten it the angle changes.

I'm thoroughly frustrated. :banghead:

 

Hey man, glad I could help with at least one of the problems. Glad it saved you some money too. As far as my instructions, you got them just about right, just a little shorter version than I gave you.

@Vinish...... Just what Justin said, use a regular drill bit, for a pilot hole, that is big enough to get the tapered extractor in, but not too big where it won't allow the extractor to bite into the metal. Drill slowly and use cutting oil or WD40, and let the drill and bit do the work. Make the hole at least 1/4 to 3/8 deep. Tap the extractor gently with a hammer 4 or 5 times, just to seat it, and use an adjustable wrench, if you don't have a tap handle, and gently tug at it until you feel it start to back out. You will feel a springy type feeling like the extractor is going to break, but keep a gentle force on it and it should soon back out. Hope this explains it.

 

Hey man, glad I could help with at least one of the problems. Glad it saved you some money too. As far as my instructions, you got them just about right, just a little shorter version than I gave you.

@Vinish...... Just what Justin said, use a regular drill bit, for a pilot hole, that is big enough to get the tapered extractor in, but not too big where it won't allow the extractor to bite into the metal. Drill slowly and use cutting oil or WD40, and let the drill and bit do the work. Make the hole at least 1/4 to 3/8 deep. Tap the extractor gently with a hammer 4 or 5 times, just to seat it, and use an adjustable wrench, if you don't have a tap handle, and gently tug at it until you feel it start to back out. You will feel a springy type feeling like the extractor is going to break, but keep a gentle force on it and it should soon back out. Hope this explains it.

Perfect explanation. Thanks.

 

You're welcome. :mosh:

 

Hope you put the right type of coolant in there. (Silica free) - not automotive unless it is Silica free.

Donut/Dougatriot:

 

It's just water in there now because I can't stop the lower pipe from leaking. The o ring was fine? Am I missing something?

 

O-rings take a set with repeated heat and cooling cycles

So the best advice I can give is get some new ones.

 

everyone should invest in a good torque wrench

 

If you're talking about a pipe with an o-ring installed in a groove on that pipe- then the pipe slides into a round hole: If you've tweaked that pipe at all it will never be straight when inserted in it's hole and tightened down.

That pipe has to sit in there perfectly straight to get the oring to seal- You could try a thicker -slightly thicker o-ring of the same diameter- lube it with silicone so it slides in easy and see if that works. No o-ring should have to go through any heating/ cooling cycle to seal- they should seal up immediately or there is a problemm. Wrong o-ring, distorted part, etc....

Sorry Charlie, didn't read your post thoroughly. You're right if the old oring is being used it may be like that- I thought for sure he had a new o-ring. Sounds like the pipe is tweaked since it leaks when tightened down. But maybe he is using an old o-ring and needs a new one.